tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78893766364492217692024-03-12T18:09:50.240-07:00Blogspot of Pete Tosen.Bit of my lifes happenings.Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.comBlogger52125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-8795971425583684762012-03-03T02:02:00.000-08:002012-03-03T02:02:21.400-08:00The Palmdale Project<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Project Line</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FX_qZ1bwoXk/T1HrRBTxcEI/AAAAAAAAAMM/0ZjdZPu-Ak8/s1600/palmdale+pro+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FX_qZ1bwoXk/T1HrRBTxcEI/AAAAAAAAAMM/0ZjdZPu-Ak8/s320/palmdale+pro+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leading into toe hook madness, photo Jason Smith</td></tr>
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Like every climber this rain has forced me and many others to put their projects on hold until better days arrive. Originally this weekend I was to be back up in the Mountains on my nemisis "The Poo", though I was not overly keen to drive all that way only to see a water fall flowing freely down some of the crucial holds. So what to do? Luckily for me a good friend of mine JP knows the central coast very very well. Piper came to the rescue. We had spoken a few weeks ago about this cave which he said was full of little rails, he was confident there was be the potential for some hard lines. Well, this was our chance to go and check it out. I left my house with a few mats, no food and my climbing gear just in case. I was thinking we would just go check it out and have a look around. We ended up being there for about 5.5 hrs pretty much trying to establish one line. Piper nearly did one other but we spent soooo much time on this one main line we were looking at. We came up with the beta only for myself to snap off the crucial hold time and time again. I think I snapped 3 crucial holds each time making the line harder and harder. We nearly gave up for the day only to say "one more shot", that shot something would click and we would find another way, this happened time and time again. In the end there was basically one last move we could not work out. Just before we left I had a thought of how we could potentially do it, though by then we were so boxed we didn't have the energy to try it again. The line is HARD! If we (I) didn't pull numerous holds off I recon it would have nearly gone today (maybe not the last move) but close. If that were the case Id say possibly V10/11, but now the holds have gotten way smaller or the moves a lot harder I am not sure what the grade will be? could be ok in awesome conditions though I still think it will pack a punch. At the moment I am thinking hard 11 maybe 12?? That's if the last move goes!!! Could be futuristic too?Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com45tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-19612008047090040542012-02-25T15:24:00.000-08:002012-02-25T16:01:44.841-08:00Back on the blocs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vbe6QrtfLgs/T0ltLA5C9zI/AAAAAAAAALo/_x5rzXHvcno/s1600/tables+reversed+v10.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vbe6QrtfLgs/T0ltLA5C9zI/AAAAAAAAALo/_x5rzXHvcno/s1600/tables+reversed+v10.png" /></a>Me on "All the tables are reversed in my private universe V10"</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vPPGr__Iig0/T0l2IXwtFYI/AAAAAAAAALw/29lMkFc1dIw/s1600/bouldering+004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vPPGr__Iig0/T0l2IXwtFYI/AAAAAAAAALw/29lMkFc1dIw/s320/bouldering+004.JPG" width="320" /></a>Michael on "Whats blue and green and red all over" V8</div>
Only a quick post today as not too much has been going on since my last. Yesterday myself and a mate got down to Sydney for some bouldering action. It felt like one of the hottest days we have seen this summer and we chose to go bouldering, totally worth it though. We headed to an area I had not been before, "The Lip", close to Frontline. A small little cave with some very awesome moves! At the moment there is only 4 lines which go through the cave, an 8 mantle thing, a 10 again with a difficult mantle at the end, an 11 which is basically the 10 but a harder extended start and another link 11 which is definitely the line to be done. At the moment the link 11 has only had one ascent though I am sure there are a few people lined up for this one. It involves some huge moves, toe hooks, heal hooks in a massive compression session. Great work by Dan for establishing this problem, he must of been maxed out spanning some of the holds! I managed to complete the 8 mantle called "Whats blue and green and red all over" as well as "All the tables are reversed in my private universe" V10. I got the moves sorted for the other problems and will be sure to be back down that way in the near future to hopefully finish them off. Great to finally go to a new area, got me keen again for the blocs, where to focus my attention........?Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-10758427513484325352012-02-19T20:18:00.000-08:002012-02-19T20:56:40.338-08:00Finally some progress<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kW8OPE0vbMw/T0HSeoU_MvI/AAAAAAAAALY/dYhihCkHeJg/s1600/Jan%2Band%2BFeb%2B2012%2B014.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711077226145854194" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kW8OPE0vbMw/T0HSeoU_MvI/AAAAAAAAALY/dYhihCkHeJg/s320/Jan%2Band%2BFeb%2B2012%2B014.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ofwt7SROVUY/T0HSF6_fcqI/AAAAAAAAALM/L1tdfAp-rC0/s1600/Jan%2Band%2BFeb%2B2012%2B012.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5711076801659237026" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ofwt7SROVUY/T0HSF6_fcqI/AAAAAAAAALM/L1tdfAp-rC0/s320/Jan%2Band%2BFeb%2B2012%2B012.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>Progress in the form of a highpoint. The next best thing if there is no red point when you have been on a project for what seems like a lifetime. I have mentioned on my blog a few times about a route which has given me grief since I started to work it. The classic, very inspirational, awesome route Poopherator, 31. I have NEVER worked a route for so long, I have never even thought I’d be motivated enough to work such a route for this period of time, but here we are 4 years into the saga. Now it’s not like I have been on it consistently for those 4 years, in this time a lot has happened. In fact I actually received a call from Charles Sturt University with my acceptance getting into my degree under neither the route. Now I have finished the degree and yet here I am. Feels like time has paused, a very peculiar feeling where everything and everyone has changed somewhat, yet this is surprisingly so familiar. I returned to this route about a month ago, since then it had probably been close to a year since I had jumped on it. Yet tying into the route, climbing the awkward log to start, and initiating movement on it, BAM everything was the same. I had not forgotten anything, weird. I returned to the route 2 weeks after that only to find a waterfall coming off the top and flowing across some of the crucial holds. There was no drying it out, it was a right off for the day, a training day. This route originally done by Steve Grkovic in 2002 has had many people struggle to complete it. One of those routes where you do the moves easily and say, “yup I got this”, only to have your arse handed to you. I started working this route with no less than 5 people, none of which have done it since. Though I am positive all of us will complete it eventually! I have done it a million times with one fall at the “driveby” crux, only to pull up the rope, do the move and go to the top. I had never done the move on link before. That was all about to change! I returned to the Mountains last Saturday. Conditions very humid as you might have guessed due to all the rain and heat. Anyway, that day I managed to do the driveby move on link 3 times. Awesome, I fell a few moves after on two occasions due to snatching a crimp wrong and therefore not being able to get my body in the correct position. My last go of the day when a storm was brewing and the temp had probably dropped a few degrees I managed to fall off going for a good gaston. If I had latched this move there is a little rest followed by one more committing move. So whilst I have not done the route (yet) I am happy for progress on it. Ill do it one day, and as it’s been so long for me to get this far I cannot even speculate how long it’ll be, though I now KNOW I can do it. That’s climbing huh. Thanks for reading. See you out there. Pete. </div></div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-1309988885201235892012-01-25T23:08:00.000-08:002012-01-25T23:33:46.198-08:00A big year in the making<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B-IVelxIkVg/TyEBhddjZmI/AAAAAAAAALA/IhTO_l1ZU0o/s1600/Christmas%2B2011%2B202.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5701840277583652450" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-B-IVelxIkVg/TyEBhddjZmI/AAAAAAAAALA/IhTO_l1ZU0o/s320/Christmas%2B2011%2B202.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><div>Once again I have not updated in a long while. There is good reason for this, mainly due to persisting injuries which inhibited me doing too much climbing. During this time I amused myself with surfing only to gain injuries in that too. What can I say, I must be getting old! However, I have returned yet again to climbing and have been training quite a bit. I have definitely found my mojo again. Since returning from the Grampians not too much got done really, I was very busy finishing my degree. Now that I have finished my degree I do feel I am able to get out more, kinda like the old days. The only thing now is to find job so I can pay for my travels. I have been able to get to the Mountains in the last week or so which was awesome, this gave me an idea as to where I am at and what I need to focus on for the future. I really miss the Mountains. Since starting my degree I have only been able to get there a handful of times a year. So what is happening for 2012? Well I have devised a periodised plan for most of the year. This is just a rough guide I guess and I am sure little changes will take place though it's good to have a plan. I have numerous goals which are spread from the Mountains (so much has been developed in new areas I haven't seen), Nowra, local crags & the Grampians. I am also hoping of a bigger overseas trip too. I just need to stay injury free. I will also get out for many more weekend trips so lets hope for a good year ahead. The pic above is of a little bloc me and the Mrs found down at Airies Inlet on the Great Ocean road. </div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-57877569868649779852011-09-16T17:07:00.000-07:002011-09-17T16:40:04.807-07:00Has been a while<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VOCuWI26LJk/TnPrgxfgkII/AAAAAAAAAJY/Uoi49lE1YuY/s1600/IMG_2301.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 214px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5653120905553940610" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VOCuWI26LJk/TnPrgxfgkII/AAAAAAAAAJY/Uoi49lE1YuY/s320/IMG_2301.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br /><div>Ok, so its been a while since this thing was updated, my bad. I have been super busy and as I mentioned in my previous post, injuries which I had held me back from training to my full potential. However, the injuries seem to be clearing up and I have been able to train a bit more without feeling overly susceptible to more injuries. I have not got too much news though. I have not been able to get out on rock on a rope or bouldering, so no news there. I guess its just a random post so anybody who does check this site knows I am still alive and well. I only have a few weeks left in my degree until the whole thing is done with and complete, so I cant wait until that happens as I have been pretty busy with that lately. I would like to think that towards the end of the year I will be able to get back to the Gramps to do some more bouldering and routes, though at this stage nothing is locked in. I have struggled lately to come up with projects I want to put some effort into, though I have herd from the local boys about some projects within the area which need to be sent. So I think its time I apply myself to the local area. If I am completely honest, I don't think I have given the climbing up here a chance to impress me even though I have been here nearly 4 years!!!!! I guess when you grow up visiting Nowra and the Mountains on a regular basis anything short of the quality doesn't overly enthuse me. Though the times I have seen local things I have been impressed. The climbing crew up here is growing very rapidly, this is thanks to Pulseclimbing. The atmosphere there during the week is good with well syked people trying problems and making their own up. For some visual stimulation, the pic is of a bit of a blow out I had on my last trip to Nowra. Hmmmmmmmm............ doesn't look good huh. </div></div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-33418740357149438622011-08-04T23:01:00.001-07:002011-08-07T02:03:35.510-07:00Injuries injuries injuries<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEsaEf4Eheg/TjuKDy0UJpI/AAAAAAAAAJI/Sq8kjvTACiU/s1600/Random%2Bphone%2Bpics%2B088.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 143px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5637251156369745554" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wEsaEf4Eheg/TjuKDy0UJpI/AAAAAAAAAJI/Sq8kjvTACiU/s320/Random%2Bphone%2Bpics%2B088.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>So its been a little while since I updated this thing. I have been busy with internship and other things. I have still been climbing a little, but I do have some injuries which are <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">currently</span> holding me back. I have injured both of my hamstrings and possibly my left <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">LCL</span> (Lateral Co-Lateral) ligament. Whilst I have not had a diagnosis I have had the same injury in my right knee so I know the feeling. Whilst it does not restrict me too much, everything I do feels dodgy. Even walking on it, it feels loose like my lower leg will just fly off. As I said, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">I've</span> still been climbing on it and doing some surfing as well as running around at school, just nothing is done with full confidence and it does feel worse the more I do, but I can't just not do anything, it's not me. Anyway <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">that's</span> why its been quiet. I did manage to repeat Chest <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">Rocketwell</span> V10 & El <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">Kooko</span> V9 just before I somehow injured myself. So I guess until its better it will be a bit quiet. I was going to compete in this weekends bouldering comp but as I will be restricted pulling with my <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">hammies</span> I have decided to get through more paperwork for school and the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">DET</span>. The pic is of some pumping surf we had a while ago, cool photo but about 8ft to big for me :)</div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-67749392885157057872011-07-03T00:04:00.000-07:002011-07-03T05:28:11.181-07:00A week in paradise!<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l_087M-PC9s/ThAsKp5k-9I/AAAAAAAAAIc/43zF3DbM098/s1600/gramps-climbing%2Band%2Bextras%2B195.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5625044496143416274" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l_087M-PC9s/ThAsKp5k-9I/AAAAAAAAAIc/43zF3DbM098/s320/gramps-climbing%2Band%2Bextras%2B195.JPG" /></a> <br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UcIzq1Brqws/ThArvkEd6FI/AAAAAAAAAIU/PkuCYydZzAU/s1600/gramps-climbing%2Band%2Bextras%2B188.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5625044030722009170" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UcIzq1Brqws/ThArvkEd6FI/AAAAAAAAAIU/PkuCYydZzAU/s320/gramps-climbing%2Band%2Bextras%2B188.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-90rRy-02lTQ/ThArcIa8-sI/AAAAAAAAAIM/FtJQ7BwPmLE/s1600/gramps-climbing%2Band%2Bextras%2B170.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5625043696882612930" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-90rRy-02lTQ/ThArcIa8-sI/AAAAAAAAAIM/FtJQ7BwPmLE/s320/gramps-climbing%2Band%2Bextras%2B170.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUD8yQF857s/ThArMR495oI/AAAAAAAAAIE/VWJhGbAAPis/s1600/gramps-climbing%2Band%2Bextras%2B176.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5625043424546514562" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zUD8yQF857s/ThArMR495oI/AAAAAAAAAIE/VWJhGbAAPis/s320/gramps-climbing%2Band%2Bextras%2B176.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>One week in paradise (AKA The Grampians). I have just returned from a week in the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">Gramps</span>. This was just a bouldering trip, no ropes, harnesses, draws etc. I have not been back to the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Gramps</span> since 2006 where I was able to get there 3 times that year. Since starting uni I have not had the chance to get back there as it <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">academics</span> and injuries have stopped me, so I am very grateful to have the chance to go back to such an amazing place. Once you don't do something for a while I think you easily forget how good it actually is until you go back and try or experience it again. Going back to the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">Gramps</span> felt so good and I really felt blessed. Anyway enough of that now. I went there with my good friend Jim and another local <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">Novocastrian</span> future <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">crusher</span> Michael. All of us had a great trip, one I don't think any of us will ever forget. We stayed at the Mt Zero cabins, these are 6<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">mins</span> from Hollow Mountain car park, and have all the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">necessities</span>. These cabins make climbing much more enjoyable <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">especially</span> in the cold winter months. Maybe I am just getting old and can't handle roughing it anymore? The <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-error">Gramps</span> is a 16.5 hr drive from Newcastle via Canberra as we had to pick up Jim, epic but totally worth it. We arrived <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Friday</span> night, climbed sat and sun, rested <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Mon</span>, climbed <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Tues</span>, rested wed and climbed <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Thurs</span> and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_14" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Fri</span>. This I think was optimal as we were able to perform and recover as best as we could <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_15" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">without</span> wasting additional days. I had been training for this trip for a while and was happy with my performance, usually I over train and either burnout a little or peak too late, or I peak to early. I think this was probably the first time everything has gone to plan. I think all 3 of us climbed well and we all left with sends under the belt and heaps more experience! Michael has only been climbing for 18months or something and has never been to any of the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_16" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">premier</span> places in Australia. As climbing in Hollow Mountain cave and the like is such a different experience he did extremely well and I congratulate him. He managed to send Rave Heart V8 easily within a few shots, Silver hands V5, A horse is a horse V4 and came very close to numerous other blocs in the V7 range. No doubt he will do well the next time he visits the area. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_17" class="blsp-spelling-error">Jimbo</span> managed to send Aphrodite V7, A horse is a horse V4, Spanking the monkey bars V8 and came really close to Rave Heart V8. I managed to do Cave Heart V10, Desire V8, A new? link-up at Kindergarten starting at the end of flash <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_18" class="blsp-spelling-error">gordon</span> with the double toe hooks, reversing it then going into <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_19" class="blsp-spelling-error">Spankin</span> the Monkey Bars coming in at V9, Amniotic World V9, Point and Shoot V11 and Dead Can't Dance V11. This last bloc was a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_20" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">surprise</span> as I managed to injure my right hamstring on my last training <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_21" class="blsp-spelling-error">sesh</span> and could not do it when I first got there because of this injury. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_22" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Luckily</span> for me it healed enough by the second last day. I also got very close to "Amazing sounds of a she-male <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_23" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">squealing</span> v12" falling after the Sleepy Hollow crux 6 times! <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_24" class="blsp-spelling-error">Hmmm</span>, will have to go back for that one later in the year. Top two photos are of Michael on Amniotic World V9 (top), Rave Heart V8 and the lower two of me on point and shoot V11 and Dead Can't Dance V11 (bottom)</div></div></div></div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-63101034976015003772011-06-14T16:25:00.000-07:002011-06-14T16:28:54.997-07:00Movie is up.Ok, so my movie is up on the "Pulseclimbing" youtube site. You can access it by following this address: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/pulseclimbing">www.youtube.com/user/pulseclimbing</a>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-78785671363926152692011-06-09T16:57:00.000-07:002011-06-13T16:33:03.317-07:00Uni is done! Time to climb.Chaos N Disorder v10<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F5nfAOXpOBU/TfFjh9TX6cI/AAAAAAAAAHo/tESM8_8Y8ng/s1600/Chaos%2Bn%2BDisorder%2Bv10.png"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616379645350373826" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F5nfAOXpOBU/TfFjh9TX6cI/AAAAAAAAAHo/tESM8_8Y8ng/s320/Chaos%2Bn%2BDisorder%2Bv10.png" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>Well I am not sure how long it has been since I updated this blog, sorry about that. Funny thing is whenever you read other peoples blogs, generally they start the same way, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">apologising</span> for lack of updates. I have been super busy <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">finishing</span> off my uni degree (University part). I have just completed my last semester of going to class and uni in general. A big step for an old boy like myself. Now its 10 weeks internship and I am done, awesome cant wait. However, I do have around 4 weeks to get out as much as I can. This actually began 2 days ago just before my last exam. Conditions were too good to pass up, so I headed down to Sydney to have a lash at a few blocs. I went straight to Crumbly, conditions were probably some of the best I have seen. However, this <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">didn't</span> help me out. I still got punished on Abacus! I have not really trained big open pinches which I think you need to be strong on if you want to send this bloc. Although I do heaps more hanging and I am 100% confident my fingers are stronger than they have ever been, I still struggle with this move. Considering the whole problem relies on this crucial pinch it has motivated me to even <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">more so</span> get strong and at least get some progress on this thing. I also tried the end bit of Phlegm v12. There was <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">definite</span> progress here and am confident with more anaerobic fitness I could link it together. Since the gym has opened here, I have really just been doing power training and fingers. I did this as I could not think of any power endurance blocs or routes for that matter I wanted to do in the short term. Now I do, so a change in training is to come. I have finished a little movie I have been working on over the past few months, I now just have to work out how to get it out. The movie has the following problems on it:</div><br /><div><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">L'Homme</span> <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">Obu</span> v11</div><br /><div>Weak Ape Test Zone v7</div><br /><div>Groove Terminator v11</div><br /><div>Chaos n Disorder v11</div><br /><div>Jug to Jug v11</div><br /><div><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">Crenshure</span> <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Boulevard</span> 31</div><br /><div>Ill put a link up when I have it up somewhere. In the next few <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-error">wks</span> I have many a trip planned. From G<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-error">ramps</span> to comps to <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span> to Sydney. Going to be epic and I cant wait to get out as I have felt a little withheld during the last few months.</div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-40579701344095037652011-05-14T18:00:00.000-07:002011-05-14T22:20:40.841-07:00Sydney BlocsGroove Terminator V11<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-URaTdT69c7g/Tc9iYiO68HI/AAAAAAAAAHc/JgXbkJCxwX8/s1600/groove%2Bterminator%2Bv11.png"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5606808234745327730" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-URaTdT69c7g/Tc9iYiO68HI/AAAAAAAAAHc/JgXbkJCxwX8/s320/groove%2Bterminator%2Bv11.png" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div>I was able to get down to Sydney once again on the weekend, this time I was off to the Wing Cave. I have been doing a little bit of training, but not overly too much really. I was going to compete in the Blocs bouldering comp on the Sat, however I figured why am I thinking about comps when I <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">don't</span> get out as much on actual things I want to send. I also had other commitments in the afternoon, so as the comp went late I would have had to leave early anyway. Turns out though I had a great day. After walking there with a few mats I finally figured out what the problem were and where they went. My friend Chris showed me the Wing Cave about 5 years ago. I remember seeing "Groove Terminator" v11 and thinking<br />WOW what a sick line. From then I wanted to do it. I had not been back since then! I am a bit <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">renowned</span> for burning out and then coming back. Ill be the first to admit that, no cover ups or excuses. I stayed in Sydney on the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Friday</span> night in the city and as morning broke, I found myself saying "Sutherland is a bit far south only for me to head north again in a few hrs, maybe ill just go back to Sissy or Crumbly". I then thought, maybe this is why I burn out, I sometimes go back to the same places repeatedly. So <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">that's</span> when I decided to go to the Wing Cave. I arrived to have a nice cool wind blowing through and nobody there, perfect! I could warm up, boulder, stop and read some study, climb again, read, you get the point. I started to work out the moves to Groove Terminator after warming up, I figured all the moves pretty quickly except 2. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Anyway</span>, I finally figured them out and thought I'd have a read on "the benefits of outdoor education" for my research project, then have a shot. I set up the video camera and to my <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">surprise</span> I was at the finishing jug in no time. Stoked! I <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">tried</span> a few other things that day then thought, ill do another lap, again I did it. The bloc is a little scary when you are the only one there and you are past your mats with the potential to have a bad fall. Anyway, I'd like to finish saying "The incredible hulk" v6! is way hard, but a sick bloc. I am slowly making a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">vid</span>, this takes time as I <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-error">dont</span> get out too much. This will be on it so you'll have to wait. Chris mate, good luck with the up coming comp, ill be holding a banner saying "Go Chris". Cheers</div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-59352940886288687482011-04-28T16:52:00.000-07:002011-04-28T20:32:09.977-07:00Update on the Easter Break<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NsZhj7JhyqU/Tbow_m1dKWI/AAAAAAAAAHU/nguwnWwjI6s/s1600/sharman.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 214px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5600842955903281506" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NsZhj7JhyqU/Tbow_m1dKWI/AAAAAAAAAHU/nguwnWwjI6s/s320/sharman.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><br /><br />Whats to come from <strong>Evolv</strong> in <strong>2011</strong>.<br /><br /><div><br /><br /><br /><br /><div>The break has been a good one and well deserved by all. I managed to do quite a bit of travelling during the Easter break and sent a few things and almost sent a few more. Unfortunately, I did not manage to send anything too hard, but never the less chains were still clipped. Lately, as I have mentioned in previous entries I have been keen on the boulders. This Easter break has <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">definitely</span> rekindled my passion for routes. The is no other place like <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span>, the climbing brilliant, holds and friction excellent, can climb multiple days on and you still have skin to burn. How could this not get me <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">keen </span>for routes. <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">Ok</span>, firstly the Easter break started with a trip to the Blue Mountains. This was a quick day trip from Sydney as I still had an assignment to get finished before I had a few days booked in <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span>. We arrived at <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">Katoomba</span> to be at peace with the clouds. It was raining, cold and pretty <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">miserable</span> really, however with nothing else to do except eat scones and drink coffee we (my wife <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">Tighan</span> and I) thought we should check it out anyway and see if things would be dry. We walked in and warmed up on the classic "Jaws" at Wave Wall. Things seemed pretty grim, but I thought I would have a go on "Touch and Go" 28 as I have been bouldering a bit and thought conditions on the crucial <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-error">pinch</span> should be <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_9" class="blsp-spelling-error">ok</span> if it was not wet. To my <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_10" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">surprise</span> I did it whilst putting the draws on. It felt super easy, I did manage to be pumped directly after the crux though, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_11" class="blsp-spelling-error">boulderers</span> huh. After that the day was getting worse so we started to head back down the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_12" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">mountain</span>, I did not want a huge day as I would be in <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_13" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span> soon. Two days later I was in <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_14" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span>. I <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_15" class="blsp-spelling-error">dont</span> get to <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_16" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span> often these days, this should change soon though once I finish my degree and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_17" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">don't</span> have assignments to do. We ended up at P.C as <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_18" class="blsp-spelling-error">Rosies</span> and Lott33 was wet wet wet. I wanted to do "Big, Thick and Powerful" 28 however in the new guide 29. This is one of the only routes at the crag I have not done yet so I was eager to do it. I put the draws on and managed to do it easily 3rd go. It should have been 2<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_19" class="blsp-spelling-error">nd</span> go but my hand got caught in the rope. I rested for the remainder of the day as I was eager to do some bouldering, on <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_20" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">arrival</span> in the afternoon though, it was still wet. We did still try without much success. The next day I tried a route called "<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_21" class="blsp-spelling-error">Crenchure</span> <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_22" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Boulevard</span>" 31 at South Central. This is a burly route which involves many powerful <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_23" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">under clings</span>, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_24" class="blsp-spelling-error">monos</span> and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_25" class="blsp-spelling-error">incut</span> crimps with tiny footers. For such a burl fest route, it is also very technical. I had been on this route before without thinking I could do it. After becoming <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_26" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">familiar</span> with it though, I managed to do it a few times with only one fall, so indeed I am keen to send it this season. As my good friend Jim was working a route at P.C and we ended up there a bit, I figured it would be a good idea for me to do something I had not done yet. I wont say what the route is yet, but its a link up and is quite hard. It will be 30 when done but I am also sure if I can get back to it when I am fresh and its dry, it should go down. Although it was a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_27" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">disappointment</span> to not send anything too hard, I am eager to train and work on what I need to in order to do these routes. I have one more day which I will be bouldering in Sydney then once again its back to the books and training centre until June. I will upload a few photos once home. Cheers.</div></div></div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-66274114065227459192011-04-13T17:19:00.000-07:002011-04-13T17:51:54.900-07:00Easter break<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KtPkGaO1vRI/TaZFIFSSweI/AAAAAAAAAG8/en9K0VhxiXY/s1600/mixed%2B213.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5595235592214594018" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KtPkGaO1vRI/TaZFIFSSweI/AAAAAAAAAG8/en9K0VhxiXY/s320/mixed%2B213.JPG" /></a> <br /><div>The Easter holidays are not too far away now, all the essays and reading will all of a sudden come to a holt. Its has been a busy start to the year, I have been training a lot. In fact, I don't think I have trained like this in years. That combined with work and uni has made me hardly have any spare time. I did get an infected finger which kept me from training as hard as I wanted to for a week or two, I am not really sure how I got it. I set a few super difficult problems at the gym up here in an attempt to increase my finger strength. These problems used some of the smallest holds I could find. I had my first session on them and the next morning I woke up and my finger was pulsating. You could not even touch it, I could not pick up a milk bottle or anything. I was concerned and did not want to stop training so I went off to the Doc. After 2 courses of Anti-biotics it seems to be clearing up. Still a little sore but manageable. I did however keep training, so I don't really think it affected my strength. I have organised to go to Nowra for 4 or 5 days just after the Easter break. I am pretty keen on bouldering at the moment so I will be doing that as well as some routes when I am not near the bouldering. For the last few years I have only been able to get to Nowra a couple of times a year, so I am super excited to get back down there and not have to think about literacy and metalanguage. I hope my training will pay off, only time will tell. </div><br /><div>Here is a pic of a storm about to come down on Newcastle, not at all relevant but a good shot. </div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-60101407036191360222011-04-04T15:54:00.001-07:002011-04-04T16:04:11.935-07:00Working on a vidJust a quick update. I have booked a trip with a good friend to Nowra just after the Easter break. I have a few ideas in mind on what I want to achieve and am working hard so I can have a good chance at getting them done. I did get down to Sydney on the weekend and managed to send L'Homme Obu which is V11. Some do mention they believe it is V10 but who knows. I did not find it too bad, although I did have quite a few shots on it. I kept falling hitting the final jug, I think becasue I was doing it statically and not just throwing. Probably thinking too much about it. Anyway I managed to send it easily once I was in the right head space. I got the send on vid which has inspired me to do a litle more filming. I will hope to repeat a few local (ish) Sydney blocks and take the camera to Nowra. I would like to think I will finish the vid a bit after Easter just before going back to uni. I hope this will pan out well. My uni degree is coming to a slow end and I am still thinking on where I want to go once finished. I would love to share the experience with someone so if there is anyone keen to go overseas and boulder, let me know. Until then, its back to uni work and training.Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-24731148507164985222011-03-22T16:41:00.000-07:002011-03-26T15:14:02.119-07:00Training Training Training<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_CkHDFd-Mic/TYk3MG6e36I/AAAAAAAAAG0/LnNnXZV1ex0/s1600/evolv.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 276px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5587057493883674530" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_CkHDFd-Mic/TYk3MG6e36I/AAAAAAAAAG0/LnNnXZV1ex0/s320/evolv.jpg" /></a><br /><div>Its been a long awaited 3years, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">that's</span> right 3 years! The gym is finally open, whilst it did not take 3 years for the gym to be constructed, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">that's</span> how long Ive been waiting for one to open up here in <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">Newy</span>. That combined with uni leaves me with the above title, training training training. I have put many problems up at the gym and I have seen good gains so far. I put some up in the early days of the gym which I thought would be quite hard, now I run laps on them. So no doubt, time to up the level a bit. I hope this converts to rock when I eventually see it again. I have got a few things on the cards in the weeks and months to come, but for now its thinking of variations in my training to keep me from getting bored, <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">something</span> which happens all to often. I have decided to <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">concentrate</span> on bouldering this year as there is heaps of stuff I <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">haven't</span> done yet which I am eager to send. Additionally, all the sport routes I would like to do are power based (except one), so by having lots of power, I'm hoping when the time comes to tie in they will feel much easier. I have had a chat to the guys dealing with <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">Evolv</span> and am super excited to get a feel of what is soon to be released (hopefully). They have some sic looking gear coming out which will have a dramatic effect on the climbing market.</div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-45028907201359089242011-02-27T14:36:00.000-08:002011-02-27T14:41:45.501-08:00Mr StripeyJust a quick one as I updated this blog yesterday. Pulse climbing has put up a vid of the new gym with myself climbing a problem I set yesterday. Yes, I am aware this is indoors but as its a new AWESOME gym, I thought a shout out should be made.<br />Can be viewed at:<br /><a href="http://www.pulseclimbing.com.au/">www.pulseclimbing.com.au</a> and <a href="http://www.youtube.com/user/pulseclimbing#p/u">www.youtube.com/user/pulseclimbing#p/u</a>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-42662726407480224122011-02-26T16:49:00.000-08:002011-02-26T23:01:52.193-08:00Cant wait for the season<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-80VHkWZMp0U/TWmmOxnOKGI/AAAAAAAAAGs/1kGItlevgv4/s1600/my%2Bgarage.bmp"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 240px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578172386241292386" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-80VHkWZMp0U/TWmmOxnOKGI/AAAAAAAAAGs/1kGItlevgv4/s320/my%2Bgarage.bmp" /></a><br /><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8-VU2hm3AJs/TWmmGHclonI/AAAAAAAAAGk/wbOFVZeKNE0/s1600/syd%2Bbouldering%2Band%2Bthe%2Bbay%2B018.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578172237483450994" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8-VU2hm3AJs/TWmmGHclonI/AAAAAAAAAGk/wbOFVZeKNE0/s320/syd%2Bbouldering%2Band%2Bthe%2Bbay%2B018.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><div>Pulse climbing is nearly all finished. They held the reel rock tour there on Wednesday just gone. The turn out was excellent with heaps more people there than I had expected. This only got me even more keen to get training and have a great year. This year I would like to do many of the bouldering comps. I think this would benefit me as a climber and also give me a great focus point other than outdoors. This is my final year in my degree so no doubt I'll be busy but hopefully I will still be able to get my goals done. As this is my final year, it has also given me great motivation to think about where I want to go once Ive finished to celebrate. I have a few destinations in mind but am unsure yet. Some of the possibilities are;</div><br /><br /><div>*Bishop and Heuco</div><div>*Joes Valley</div><div>*Spain</div><div>*Red River Gorge</div><div>*Switzerland</div><br /><br /><div>There are others which pop into my head, though these stand out the most to me at the moment. I have started to really get back into form lately. I did a weekend in the Blue Mountains where I was able to test out where I'm at and how I'm climbing. I was also able to get to Nowra 2 days after that to do a few laps whilst dodging the mosquito's!!!!! (unsuccessfully). I have also been back on the hangboard and my wall until the gym opens on the 12th of March. I also was able to get down to Sydney to do some bouldering and become familiar with a few problems I want to do this year. This was partially successful and partially not. I did well on a problem called L'Homme Obu graded V10/11 but the weather was hot and skin came off easily. After that I went to Crumbly to try the moves of Abacus V12. This thing shut me down so hard. I didn't really rest, and whilst progress was made, the whole thing feels nails. This disappointed me as last yr when fresh I believed I had a good chance if I continued to work it. However, this motivated me more to get into form and hopefully later in the year it will be on the scorecard. </div><div>The photos above are me on L'Homme Obu and me training in my garage (previously newcastles best facillity).</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div></div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-88458049467093631342011-02-09T15:55:00.000-08:002011-02-09T16:21:14.766-08:00Count DownWell if you have looked at my page before, you will already know there is an amazing gym soon to be open here in Newcastle. I am so excited for this gym to be open. I cant wait to see how the sport grows up here in Newy and am eager to really start training in a fun way at a gym again. Since moving to Newcastle about 3 years ago I have not had any gym to train at. This makes it extremley hard to keep motivation levels at a high (being stuck doing essays is not good for motivation either). For me climbing is really about motivation and goals. If both are there then everything else is able to fall into place. You can tapper your training and good this will happen. I am proud of what I have accomplished since being here in Newcastle considering the above. My training consisted of lots of hangboarding, and some bouldering on my little 2 and a half panal home wall. I am greatful in a way that I did not have a gym to train at. My reasoning for this is that I now fully (well maybe not fully) understand the benefits of hangboarding and know the masive benefits gained from it if done correctly. A big thanks goes out to my good friend Chris Webb though. Most of the time he is away overseas, however when he is in the country he ALWAYS seems to motivate and pushes me to my limits. Good luck O/S mate, come back every now and then so I can get some stuff done. Whilst I did many trips to Sydney for both bouldering and training this gym opening will enable so many people to up their climbing skill and will be a massive contribution to the sport. What else could you ask for, amazing beaches, not overly busy traffic and a good climbing gym. Well you could possibly ask to be a little closer to rock, but if there is a group of super keen people to share the driving and get away thats ok.Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-69146564942983671142010-12-30T17:27:00.000-08:002011-01-01T16:23:38.793-08:00Almost 2011, what will it bring?...... How about a CLIMBING GYM<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TR_FdlKMXUI/AAAAAAAAAGY/FCgTKwx3F3A/s1600/gym%2Bpic%2B2.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 180px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557377577180224834" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TR_FdlKMXUI/AAAAAAAAAGY/FCgTKwx3F3A/s320/gym%2Bpic%2B2.jpg" /></a><br /><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TR_FMzwpD9I/AAAAAAAAAGQ/exzNxvl9U74/s1600/PhotoHeader%255B1%255D.png"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 84px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5557377289041809362" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TR_FMzwpD9I/AAAAAAAAAGQ/exzNxvl9U74/s320/PhotoHeader%255B1%255D.png" /></a><br /><br /><div>2011 is almost here. This coming year should put Newcastle back on the climbing map. A few people have gone in together to build from ground up <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Newcastle's</span> ONLY climbing gym. This gym will be excellent. The people building it have a great idea on shapes and the dynamics of climbing. The gym atmosphere should be amazing as Newcastle has such an array of people and abilities. I cannot wait to get in there and get a great scene going. Watch out <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Sydney</span> squads cause <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">Novocastrians</span> will be coming through the ranks. The website can be viewed here:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.pulseclimbing.com.au/">http://www.pulseclimbing.com.au/</a><br /><br />On a personal note, I have been keeping in shape but have <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">tapered</span> back a little on the climbing as it has been an extremely busy time for me. Elevated temperatures also contribute to the decrease in training. I finished my 3rd yr in my degree this year, so exams were intense followed by a month <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">prac</span> placement followed by more assignments and finally the Christmas period. I have been surfing quite a bit and have seen good improvements in my skills which is great. For 2011 I have a few goals (both routes and bouldering) and a few trips in the making. I am hoping if all goes according to plan to organise a great trip once I finish my degree. Until then, see you round,<br />Cheers.</div></div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-34072175556943190842010-10-23T20:55:00.000-07:002010-10-26T17:46:07.685-07:00Just a bit of an update<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TMd2M-0jBoI/AAAAAAAAAGE/0DX6Poue4rY/s1600/ecat+pic.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 214px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5532520632641848962" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TMd2M-0jBoI/AAAAAAAAAGE/0DX6Poue4rY/s320/ecat+pic.jpg" /></a><br /><div>Well, it's been heating up a bit lately, well except for today. It has been raining here in <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Newcastle</span> for close to 12hrs. On the climbing front, I have been keeping in <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">OK</span> shape training at <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">ECAT</span> in Sydney and also on my wall here in Newcastle. I have not been out on rock for a little while as it's getting warm and would rather get some good training in as conditions would not be great. In the next couple of months there is a possibility of a few trips down to the Grampians in December and also in January next year. I do have quite a few little projects I would like to complete down there, but until then it's likely to be training indoors (with the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">occasional</span> outdoor trip) and surfing.</div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-59718950230960844962010-10-01T19:58:00.001-07:002011-04-04T15:53:54.428-07:00Day trip to NowraI decided to do a quick day trip down to Nowra from my home town of Newcastle. Yes, that's right, Newcastle. This is a 4.5hr drive for me, so 9hrs all up. With this kind of drive you would hope for some kind of success. Well it turned out to be a ripper of a day. Conditions were a cool 17 degrees with a nice wind the whole day. I wanted to finish off a problem at Cheesedale called "Jug to Jug" V11. Previously, this problem was stout V9 however, a good two finger pocket was filled and is no longer there to pull on. Now its a big move to a slope with a difficult match. I tried this problem on the weekend of T10 and found it hard initially until finally my body got used to the moves. I got super close that day but unfortunately it did not go. I thought if I don't organise to get back down to Nowra soon I may have to wait for ages as it is so far and ill be busy soon. Conditions were so good, and I knew the moves and I was confident it would go down. After a quick warm up and a few stretches I sent it. Have a look at the vid to see it. A big thanks goes to Pete Webster (champ in the background) for half the driving. Without him it would have been difficult for me to get down there for a day trip.Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-7475829324416345932010-09-27T23:12:00.000-07:002010-09-27T23:27:24.324-07:00Banana Rama<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TKGKtvO__UI/AAAAAAAAAF8/InDXiAZyP90/s1600/hairy+joes+banana+shack+002.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5521847136511065410" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TKGKtvO__UI/AAAAAAAAAF8/InDXiAZyP90/s320/hairy+joes+banana+shack+002.JPG" /></a><br /><div>Hairy Joe's Banana Shack, V11. </div><br /><div>It is finally Uni holidays, after a long term I finally was free to get out on the blocs once again before it starts to get hot. I decided to head down to the Villas once more to finish off "Hairy Joe's Banana Shack". I tried this problem after Contact however, it got hot so I knew I would have to come back to finish it off. I knew I would be racing the sun and did not have very much time, luckily for me by 11:30 it was done. This is a super simple problem (I mean easy to work out), just one hard move at the start then up a scoop to a jug finish. The first move is the hardest with a big lock/dead point to a good edge, the first time I did this move I fell off the last move going to a big victory jug. I was shattered and made sure that was not going to happen again. The second time I did the move everything went according to plan and it was done. Hopefully there is more to come in the holidays, however it is warming up quickly so time to get out there then hit the surf. </div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-70385128104062275012010-09-18T21:32:00.000-07:002010-09-19T05:46:44.715-07:00Contact RHV V12 goes down.<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TJWdPTApVgI/AAAAAAAAAFU/FdNPu-bQDdI/s1600/199.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5518489804538992130" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TJWdPTApVgI/AAAAAAAAAFU/FdNPu-bQDdI/s320/199.JPG" /></a><br /><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TJWcrznJ9pI/AAAAAAAAAFM/PpKMCdJemfY/s1600/194.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5518489194815157906" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TJWcrznJ9pI/AAAAAAAAAFM/PpKMCdJemfY/s320/194.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><div>The Villas, a Sutherland crag with <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">everything</span> to keep a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">boulderer</span> happy. This place is so good, its got a nice scene to it being right next to the river in bushland. With steep powerful climbing to <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">techo</span> slabs this place has it all. I have been going here on the odd day here and there with my sites on Contact and numerous other projects. After coming back from <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span> one day, I decided to stop here and give Contact ago. That same day I nearly did it, I went from matching the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">undercling</span>/pinch to the top. All I had to do was one move onto the <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">undercling</span> and then match, from here I had done it and thought it would be sweet. Thing is <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">everytime</span> I went back there to try and send it, I would either injury myself OR conditions were terrible and simply pulling on would be an achievement in itself. Last time I was there I injured my ankle quite badly so I could not go back <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">until</span> it had healed. Anyway, after my ankle had healed enough I thought I would go back and have a burn on it. After warming up I pulled on only to feel that my ankle had not fully healed and was still sore. I was shattered but thought I would tough it out and see if it got better the more I warmed up. Lucky for me this was the case, I ended up sending it after some slight modifications regarding foot placement. This is great and I am super happy, I have had numerous other injuries lately all of which I have been scared may become worse, so I am happy to have this ticked off even though it took longer than anticipated.</div></div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-63143159474841732282010-08-24T20:01:00.000-07:002010-09-19T05:43:44.624-07:00Quick day in NowraSexy Nuggets V9<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/THSL8hU_GvI/AAAAAAAAAE8/4kQPh9lSjFs/s1600/IMG_0196.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 214px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5509182116035762930" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/THSL8hU_GvI/AAAAAAAAAE8/4kQPh9lSjFs/s320/IMG_0196.jpg" /></a><br /><div>Bit of a quick trip to <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span></span> and back. After an election party on the Saturday night, Sunday I woke eager to get to <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span></span> to climb a few things and get some fitness training in. Once again it was myself with my brother Dwayne. After a quick warm up at <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">Rosies</span></span> I decided to try a link I had my eye on at Lott 33. The link starts at "Sexy <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">Rexy</span></span>" V8 which is just to the right of "Special Delivery", it then heads right, and right again, and a l<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-corrected"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">ittle</span></span> bit more to link into "Nappy Nuggets" V8. This is a quite long boulder, all up it is around 21 moves and no doubt is a bit of a pumper. The hardest part of it I guess is the very last punch into a <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error"><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_5" class="blsp-spelling-error">gaston</span></span> at the end of "Nappy Nuggets". It is called "Sexy Nuggets" and I graded it V9. I think it is solid at that as its <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">definitely</span> harder than the original V8 but probably not as hard as 10. It is a cool boulder and I'd recommend it to anyone. After this, I did a few laps on Ain't No Sunshine and <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_6" class="blsp-spelling-error">attempted </span><span id="SPELLING_ERROR_7" class="blsp-spelling-error">Crenshure</span> <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_8" class="blsp-spelling-corrected">Boulevard</span> at South Central. That route is amazing, whilst very very overlooked, the moves are so rad. Maybe before the season has ended it will be in the basket.</div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-27388474581521048612010-08-09T00:59:00.000-07:002010-08-12T05:46:05.981-07:00Loving the ClimbingTurbo Guns V10<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TGPsp8zLbHI/AAAAAAAAAE0/XEowsARZ7ZQ/s1600/IMG_0081%5B1%5D.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 320px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 214px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5504503375016455282" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gNho63MHcZQ/TGPsp8zLbHI/AAAAAAAAAE0/XEowsARZ7ZQ/s320/IMG_0081%5B1%5D.jpg" /></a><br /><div>Another fine weekned at Nowra, the weather was perfect, heaps of people and a great atmosphere. I had a few things on my mind this trip and was keen to polish off a few things. First stop was Cheesedale. I had been on Turbo Guns previously after trying a few other routes and had found the start quite hard (most likely cause I cant fit my fat fingers in the pockets very well). Anyway, after seeing my brother send his first lead (which was great) I decided to give it a crack. I managed to send Turbo Guns V10 on my first shot that day. I was pretty happy with this as I'd been on it previously and found it difficult. In the meantime a friend Norry was ever so close to putting "Non dairy cheese like substitute" 30/31 to bed, unfortunately that day came in short.<br /><br />The next day after another night in front of a fire drinking Jack we were heading to Rosies. Here I was able to snatch an ascent of "Hooter Paradise" 31. This is the direct line to "Aloha Paradise" starting up "Lucious Hooters", a powerful and steely 26. The route is so good, amazing in fact, pockets, crimps, slopes and even a crux sideways dyno! After this my brother and myself smashed ourselves bouldering at Lott33. So all in all I'm super happy with the weekend. Photos will be posted once I get em, thanks to Dwayne for his handy camera work.</div>Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7889376636449221769.post-56187883818086724242010-08-02T05:30:00.000-07:002010-08-02T05:43:51.133-07:00Sydney BoulderingOn Sunday I had organised to meet my good friend Chris once again for a bit of a session at Crumbly in Sydney. I was keen to send a new addition to the crag put up by <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_0" class="blsp-spelling-error">Webby</span>. The new line starts as for "Abacus" and heads left onto the rails on "Sushi Train" and continues left towards the start of "<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_1" class="blsp-spelling-error">Mushi</span> Brain". The meat of the line is right at the end where your pretty spanned out having to latch a small <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_2" class="blsp-spelling-error">gaston</span> crimp. I had tried this line after climbing at another crag and also 2<span id="SPELLING_ERROR_3" class="blsp-spelling-error">nd</span> day on after a big day at <span id="SPELLING_ERROR_4" class="blsp-spelling-error">Nowra</span>. I was keen to get on it with fresh skin and a fresh mind. After a few stretches and chin-ups I managed to send "Life Changes" V11 on my first go that day. The line is fantastic and climbs really well. Chris managed to repeat many things too, pretty much Chris can run laps on anything in the crag!!! I also managed to send "Chaos & Disorder" V11 that same day later in the afternoon. Originally V10 apparently it has changed as a crucial hold snapped off. All in all a great day, perfect conditions with a great friends. Photos will hopefully be done soon, I will post them up once I get them.<br /><br />Cheers, have a great day.Peter Tosenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17672565424805956415noreply@blogger.com1