The Palmdale Project

Project Line

Leading into toe hook madness, photo Jason Smith

Like every climber this rain has forced me and many others to put their projects on hold until better days arrive. Originally this weekend I was to be back up in the Mountains on my nemisis "The Poo", though I was not overly keen to drive all that way only to see a water fall flowing freely down some of the crucial holds. So what to do? Luckily for me a good friend of mine JP knows the central coast very very well. Piper came to the rescue. We had spoken a few weeks ago about this cave which he said was full of little rails, he was confident there was be the potential for some hard lines. Well, this was our chance to go and check it out. I left my house with a few mats, no food and my climbing gear just in case. I was thinking we would just go check it out and have a look around. We ended up being there for about 5.5 hrs pretty much trying to establish one line. Piper nearly did one other but we spent soooo much time on this one main line we were looking at. We came up with the beta only for myself to snap off the crucial hold time and time again. I think I snapped 3 crucial holds each time making the line harder and harder. We nearly gave up for the day only to say "one more shot", that shot something would click and we would find another way, this happened time and time again. In the end there was basically one last move we could not work out. Just before we left I had a thought of how we could potentially do it, though by then we were so boxed we didn't have the energy to try it again. The line is HARD! If we (I) didn't pull numerous holds off I recon it would have nearly gone today (maybe not the last move) but close. If that were the case Id say possibly V10/11, but now the holds have gotten way smaller or the moves a lot harder I am not sure what the grade will be? could be ok in awesome conditions though I still think it will pack a punch. At the moment I am thinking hard 11 maybe 12?? That's if the last move goes!!! Could be futuristic too?

Back on the blocs

Me on "All the tables are reversed in my private universe V10"

Michael on "Whats blue and green and red all over" V8

Only a quick post today as not too much has been going on since my last. Yesterday myself and a mate got down to Sydney for some bouldering action. It felt like one of the hottest days we have seen this summer and we chose to go bouldering, totally worth it though. We headed to an area I had not been before, "The Lip", close to Frontline. A small little cave with some very awesome moves! At the moment there is only 4 lines which go through the cave, an 8 mantle thing, a 10 again with a difficult mantle at the end, an 11 which is basically the 10 but a harder extended start and another link 11 which is definitely the line to be done. At the moment the link 11 has only had one ascent though I am sure there are a few people lined up for this one. It involves some huge moves, toe hooks, heal hooks in a massive compression session. Great work by Dan for establishing this problem, he must of been maxed out spanning some of the holds! I managed to complete the 8 mantle called "Whats blue and green and red all over" as well as "All the tables are reversed in my private universe" V10. I got the moves sorted for the other problems and will be sure to be back down that way in the near future to hopefully finish them off. Great to finally go to a new area, got me keen again for the blocs, where to focus my attention........?

Finally some progress

Progress in the form of a highpoint. The next best thing if there is no red point when you have been on a project for what seems like a lifetime. I have mentioned on my blog a few times about a route which has given me grief since I started to work it. The classic, very inspirational, awesome route Poopherator, 31. I have NEVER worked a route for so long, I have never even thought I’d be motivated enough to work such a route for this period of time, but here we are 4 years into the saga. Now it’s not like I have been on it consistently for those 4 years, in this time a lot has happened. In fact I actually received a call from Charles Sturt University with my acceptance getting into my degree under neither the route. Now I have finished the degree and yet here I am. Feels like time has paused, a very peculiar feeling where everything and everyone has changed somewhat, yet this is surprisingly so familiar. I returned to this route about a month ago, since then it had probably been close to a year since I had jumped on it. Yet tying into the route, climbing the awkward log to start, and initiating movement on it, BAM everything was the same. I had not forgotten anything, weird. I returned to the route 2 weeks after that only to find a waterfall coming off the top and flowing across some of the crucial holds. There was no drying it out, it was a right off for the day, a training day. This route originally done by Steve Grkovic in 2002 has had many people struggle to complete it. One of those routes where you do the moves easily and say, “yup I got this”, only to have your arse handed to you. I started working this route with no less than 5 people, none of which have done it since. Though I am positive all of us will complete it eventually! I have done it a million times with one fall at the “driveby” crux, only to pull up the rope, do the move and go to the top. I had never done the move on link before. That was all about to change! I returned to the Mountains last Saturday. Conditions very humid as you might have guessed due to all the rain and heat. Anyway, that day I managed to do the driveby move on link 3 times. Awesome, I fell a few moves after on two occasions due to snatching a crimp wrong and therefore not being able to get my body in the correct position. My last go of the day when a storm was brewing and the temp had probably dropped a few degrees I managed to fall off going for a good gaston. If I had latched this move there is a little rest followed by one more committing move. So whilst I have not done the route (yet) I am happy for progress on it. Ill do it one day, and as it’s been so long for me to get this far I cannot even speculate how long it’ll be, though I now KNOW I can do it. That’s climbing huh. Thanks for reading. See you out there. Pete.

A big year in the making

Once again I have not updated in a long while. There is good reason for this, mainly due to persisting injuries which inhibited me doing too much climbing. During this time I amused myself with surfing only to gain injuries in that too. What can I say, I must be getting old! However, I have returned yet again to climbing and have been training quite a bit. I have definitely found my mojo again. Since returning from the Grampians not too much got done really, I was very busy finishing my degree. Now that I have finished my degree I do feel I am able to get out more, kinda like the old days. The only thing now is to find job so I can pay for my travels. I have been able to get to the Mountains in the last week or so which was awesome, this gave me an idea as to where I am at and what I need to focus on for the future. I really miss the Mountains. Since starting my degree I have only been able to get there a handful of times a year. So what is happening for 2012? Well I have devised a periodised plan for most of the year. This is just a rough guide I guess and I am sure little changes will take place though it's good to have a plan. I have numerous goals which are spread from the Mountains (so much has been developed in new areas I haven't seen), Nowra, local crags & the Grampians. I am also hoping of a bigger overseas trip too. I just need to stay injury free. I will also get out for many more weekend trips so lets hope for a good year ahead. The pic above is of a little bloc me and the Mrs found down at Airies Inlet on the Great Ocean road.

Has been a while

Ok, so its been a while since this thing was updated, my bad. I have been super busy and as I mentioned in my previous post, injuries which I had held me back from training to my full potential. However, the injuries seem to be clearing up and I have been able to train a bit more without feeling overly susceptible to more injuries. I have not got too much news though. I have not been able to get out on rock on a rope or bouldering, so no news there. I guess its just a random post so anybody who does check this site knows I am still alive and well. I only have a few weeks left in my degree until the whole thing is done with and complete, so I cant wait until that happens as I have been pretty busy with that lately. I would like to think that towards the end of the year I will be able to get back to the Gramps to do some more bouldering and routes, though at this stage nothing is locked in. I have struggled lately to come up with projects I want to put some effort into, though I have herd from the local boys about some projects within the area which need to be sent. So I think its time I apply myself to the local area. If I am completely honest, I don't think I have given the climbing up here a chance to impress me even though I have been here nearly 4 years!!!!! I guess when you grow up visiting Nowra and the Mountains on a regular basis anything short of the quality doesn't overly enthuse me. Though the times I have seen local things I have been impressed. The climbing crew up here is growing very rapidly, this is thanks to Pulseclimbing. The atmosphere there during the week is good with well syked people trying problems and making their own up. For some visual stimulation, the pic is of a bit of a blow out I had on my last trip to Nowra. Hmmmmmmmm............ doesn't look good huh.

Injuries injuries injuries

So its been a little while since I updated this thing. I have been busy with internship and other things. I have still been climbing a little, but I do have some injuries which are currently holding me back. I have injured both of my hamstrings and possibly my left LCL (Lateral Co-Lateral) ligament. Whilst I have not had a diagnosis I have had the same injury in my right knee so I know the feeling. Whilst it does not restrict me too much, everything I do feels dodgy. Even walking on it, it feels loose like my lower leg will just fly off. As I said, I've still been climbing on it and doing some surfing as well as running around at school, just nothing is done with full confidence and it does feel worse the more I do, but I can't just not do anything, it's not me. Anyway that's why its been quiet. I did manage to repeat Chest Rocketwell V10 & El Kooko V9 just before I somehow injured myself. So I guess until its better it will be a bit quiet. I was going to compete in this weekends bouldering comp but as I will be restricted pulling with my hammies I have decided to get through more paperwork for school and the DET. The pic is of some pumping surf we had a while ago, cool photo but about 8ft to big for me :)

A week in paradise!

One week in paradise (AKA The Grampians). I have just returned from a week in the Gramps. This was just a bouldering trip, no ropes, harnesses, draws etc. I have not been back to the Gramps since 2006 where I was able to get there 3 times that year. Since starting uni I have not had the chance to get back there as it academics and injuries have stopped me, so I am very grateful to have the chance to go back to such an amazing place. Once you don't do something for a while I think you easily forget how good it actually is until you go back and try or experience it again. Going back to the Gramps felt so good and I really felt blessed. Anyway enough of that now. I went there with my good friend Jim and another local Novocastrian future crusher Michael. All of us had a great trip, one I don't think any of us will ever forget. We stayed at the Mt Zero cabins, these are 6mins from Hollow Mountain car park, and have all the necessities. These cabins make climbing much more enjoyable especially in the cold winter months. Maybe I am just getting old and can't handle roughing it anymore? The Gramps is a 16.5 hr drive from Newcastle via Canberra as we had to pick up Jim, epic but totally worth it. We arrived Friday night, climbed sat and sun, rested Mon, climbed Tues, rested wed and climbed Thurs and Fri. This I think was optimal as we were able to perform and recover as best as we could without wasting additional days. I had been training for this trip for a while and was happy with my performance, usually I over train and either burnout a little or peak too late, or I peak to early. I think this was probably the first time everything has gone to plan. I think all 3 of us climbed well and we all left with sends under the belt and heaps more experience! Michael has only been climbing for 18months or something and has never been to any of the premier places in Australia. As climbing in Hollow Mountain cave and the like is such a different experience he did extremely well and I congratulate him. He managed to send Rave Heart V8 easily within a few shots, Silver hands V5, A horse is a horse V4 and came very close to numerous other blocs in the V7 range. No doubt he will do well the next time he visits the area. Jimbo managed to send Aphrodite V7, A horse is a horse V4, Spanking the monkey bars V8 and came really close to Rave Heart V8. I managed to do Cave Heart V10, Desire V8, A new? link-up at Kindergarten starting at the end of flash gordon with the double toe hooks, reversing it then going into Spankin the Monkey Bars coming in at V9, Amniotic World V9, Point and Shoot V11 and Dead Can't Dance V11. This last bloc was a surprise as I managed to injure my right hamstring on my last training sesh and could not do it when I first got there because of this injury. Luckily for me it healed enough by the second last day. I also got very close to "Amazing sounds of a she-male squealing v12" falling after the Sleepy Hollow crux 6 times! Hmmm, will have to go back for that one later in the year. Top two photos are of Michael on Amniotic World V9 (top), Rave Heart V8 and the lower two of me on point and shoot V11 and Dead Can't Dance V11 (bottom)

Movie is up.

Ok, so my movie is up on the "Pulseclimbing" youtube site. You can access it by following this address: www.youtube.com/user/pulseclimbing

Uni is done! Time to climb.

Chaos N Disorder v10

Well I am not sure how long it has been since I updated this blog, sorry about that. Funny thing is whenever you read other peoples blogs, generally they start the same way, apologising for lack of updates. I have been super busy finishing off my uni degree (University part). I have just completed my last semester of going to class and uni in general. A big step for an old boy like myself. Now its 10 weeks internship and I am done, awesome cant wait. However, I do have around 4 weeks to get out as much as I can. This actually began 2 days ago just before my last exam. Conditions were too good to pass up, so I headed down to Sydney to have a lash at a few blocs. I went straight to Crumbly, conditions were probably some of the best I have seen. However, this didn't help me out. I still got punished on Abacus! I have not really trained big open pinches which I think you need to be strong on if you want to send this bloc. Although I do heaps more hanging and I am 100% confident my fingers are stronger than they have ever been, I still struggle with this move. Considering the whole problem relies on this crucial pinch it has motivated me to even more so get strong and at least get some progress on this thing. I also tried the end bit of Phlegm v12. There was definite progress here and am confident with more anaerobic fitness I could link it together. Since the gym has opened here, I have really just been doing power training and fingers. I did this as I could not think of any power endurance blocs or routes for that matter I wanted to do in the short term. Now I do, so a change in training is to come. I have finished a little movie I have been working on over the past few months, I now just have to work out how to get it out. The movie has the following problems on it:

L'Homme Obu v11

Weak Ape Test Zone v7

Groove Terminator v11

Chaos n Disorder v11

Jug to Jug v11

Crenshure Boulevard 31

Ill put a link up when I have it up somewhere. In the next few wks I have many a trip planned. From Gramps to comps to Nowra to Sydney. Going to be epic and I cant wait to get out as I have felt a little withheld during the last few months.

Sydney Blocs

Groove Terminator V11

I was able to get down to Sydney once again on the weekend, this time I was off to the Wing Cave. I have been doing a little bit of training, but not overly too much really. I was going to compete in the Blocs bouldering comp on the Sat, however I figured why am I thinking about comps when I don't get out as much on actual things I want to send. I also had other commitments in the afternoon, so as the comp went late I would have had to leave early anyway. Turns out though I had a great day. After walking there with a few mats I finally figured out what the problem were and where they went. My friend Chris showed me the Wing Cave about 5 years ago. I remember seeing "Groove Terminator" v11 and thinking
WOW what a sick line. From then I wanted to do it. I had not been back since then! I am a bit renowned for burning out and then coming back. Ill be the first to admit that, no cover ups or excuses. I stayed in Sydney on the Friday night in the city and as morning broke, I found myself saying "Sutherland is a bit far south only for me to head north again in a few hrs, maybe ill just go back to Sissy or Crumbly". I then thought, maybe this is why I burn out, I sometimes go back to the same places repeatedly. So that's when I decided to go to the Wing Cave. I arrived to have a nice cool wind blowing through and nobody there, perfect! I could warm up, boulder, stop and read some study, climb again, read, you get the point. I started to work out the moves to Groove Terminator after warming up, I figured all the moves pretty quickly except 2. Anyway, I finally figured them out and thought I'd have a read on "the benefits of outdoor education" for my research project, then have a shot. I set up the video camera and to my surprise I was at the finishing jug in no time. Stoked! I tried a few other things that day then thought, ill do another lap, again I did it. The bloc is a little scary when you are the only one there and you are past your mats with the potential to have a bad fall. Anyway, I'd like to finish saying "The incredible hulk" v6! is way hard, but a sick bloc. I am slowly making a vid, this takes time as I dont get out too much. This will be on it so you'll have to wait. Chris mate, good luck with the up coming comp, ill be holding a banner saying "Go Chris". Cheers

Update on the Easter Break

Whats to come from Evolv in 2011.

The break has been a good one and well deserved by all. I managed to do quite a bit of travelling during the Easter break and sent a few things and almost sent a few more. Unfortunately, I did not manage to send anything too hard, but never the less chains were still clipped. Lately, as I have mentioned in previous entries I have been keen on the boulders. This Easter break has definitely rekindled my passion for routes. The is no other place like Nowra, the climbing brilliant, holds and friction excellent, can climb multiple days on and you still have skin to burn. How could this not get me keen for routes. Ok, firstly the Easter break started with a trip to the Blue Mountains. This was a quick day trip from Sydney as I still had an assignment to get finished before I had a few days booked in Nowra. We arrived at Katoomba to be at peace with the clouds. It was raining, cold and pretty miserable really, however with nothing else to do except eat scones and drink coffee we (my wife Tighan and I) thought we should check it out anyway and see if things would be dry. We walked in and warmed up on the classic "Jaws" at Wave Wall. Things seemed pretty grim, but I thought I would have a go on "Touch and Go" 28 as I have been bouldering a bit and thought conditions on the crucial pinch should be ok if it was not wet. To my surprise I did it whilst putting the draws on. It felt super easy, I did manage to be pumped directly after the crux though, boulderers huh. After that the day was getting worse so we started to head back down the mountain, I did not want a huge day as I would be in Nowra soon. Two days later I was in Nowra. I dont get to Nowra often these days, this should change soon though once I finish my degree and don't have assignments to do. We ended up at P.C as Rosies and Lott33 was wet wet wet. I wanted to do "Big, Thick and Powerful" 28 however in the new guide 29. This is one of the only routes at the crag I have not done yet so I was eager to do it. I put the draws on and managed to do it easily 3rd go. It should have been 2nd go but my hand got caught in the rope. I rested for the remainder of the day as I was eager to do some bouldering, on arrival in the afternoon though, it was still wet. We did still try without much success. The next day I tried a route called "Crenchure Boulevard" 31 at South Central. This is a burly route which involves many powerful under clings, monos and incut crimps with tiny footers. For such a burl fest route, it is also very technical. I had been on this route before without thinking I could do it. After becoming familiar with it though, I managed to do it a few times with only one fall, so indeed I am keen to send it this season. As my good friend Jim was working a route at P.C and we ended up there a bit, I figured it would be a good idea for me to do something I had not done yet. I wont say what the route is yet, but its a link up and is quite hard. It will be 30 when done but I am also sure if I can get back to it when I am fresh and its dry, it should go down. Although it was a disappointment to not send anything too hard, I am eager to train and work on what I need to in order to do these routes. I have one more day which I will be bouldering in Sydney then once again its back to the books and training centre until June. I will upload a few photos once home. Cheers.

Easter break

The Easter holidays are not too far away now, all the essays and reading will all of a sudden come to a holt. Its has been a busy start to the year, I have been training a lot. In fact, I don't think I have trained like this in years. That combined with work and uni has made me hardly have any spare time. I did get an infected finger which kept me from training as hard as I wanted to for a week or two, I am not really sure how I got it. I set a few super difficult problems at the gym up here in an attempt to increase my finger strength. These problems used some of the smallest holds I could find. I had my first session on them and the next morning I woke up and my finger was pulsating. You could not even touch it, I could not pick up a milk bottle or anything. I was concerned and did not want to stop training so I went off to the Doc. After 2 courses of Anti-biotics it seems to be clearing up. Still a little sore but manageable. I did however keep training, so I don't really think it affected my strength. I have organised to go to Nowra for 4 or 5 days just after the Easter break. I am pretty keen on bouldering at the moment so I will be doing that as well as some routes when I am not near the bouldering. For the last few years I have only been able to get to Nowra a couple of times a year, so I am super excited to get back down there and not have to think about literacy and metalanguage. I hope my training will pay off, only time will tell.

Here is a pic of a storm about to come down on Newcastle, not at all relevant but a good shot.

Working on a vid

Just a quick update. I have booked a trip with a good friend to Nowra just after the Easter break. I have a few ideas in mind on what I want to achieve and am working hard so I can have a good chance at getting them done. I did get down to Sydney on the weekend and managed to send L'Homme Obu which is V11. Some do mention they believe it is V10 but who knows. I did not find it too bad, although I did have quite a few shots on it. I kept falling hitting the final jug, I think becasue I was doing it statically and not just throwing. Probably thinking too much about it. Anyway I managed to send it easily once I was in the right head space. I got the send on vid which has inspired me to do a litle more filming. I will hope to repeat a few local (ish) Sydney blocks and take the camera to Nowra. I would like to think I will finish the vid a bit after Easter just before going back to uni. I hope this will pan out well. My uni degree is coming to a slow end and I am still thinking on where I want to go once finished. I would love to share the experience with someone so if there is anyone keen to go overseas and boulder, let me know. Until then, its back to uni work and training.

Training Training Training

Its been a long awaited 3years, that's right 3 years! The gym is finally open, whilst it did not take 3 years for the gym to be constructed, that's how long Ive been waiting for one to open up here in Newy. That combined with uni leaves me with the above title, training training training. I have put many problems up at the gym and I have seen good gains so far. I put some up in the early days of the gym which I thought would be quite hard, now I run laps on them. So no doubt, time to up the level a bit. I hope this converts to rock when I eventually see it again. I have got a few things on the cards in the weeks and months to come, but for now its thinking of variations in my training to keep me from getting bored, something which happens all to often. I have decided to concentrate on bouldering this year as there is heaps of stuff I haven't done yet which I am eager to send. Additionally, all the sport routes I would like to do are power based (except one), so by having lots of power, I'm hoping when the time comes to tie in they will feel much easier. I have had a chat to the guys dealing with Evolv and am super excited to get a feel of what is soon to be released (hopefully). They have some sic looking gear coming out which will have a dramatic effect on the climbing market.

Mr Stripey

Just a quick one as I updated this blog yesterday. Pulse climbing has put up a vid of the new gym with myself climbing a problem I set yesterday. Yes, I am aware this is indoors but as its a new AWESOME gym, I thought a shout out should be made.
Can be viewed at:
www.pulseclimbing.com.au and www.youtube.com/user/pulseclimbing#p/u

Cant wait for the season

Pulse climbing is nearly all finished. They held the reel rock tour there on Wednesday just gone. The turn out was excellent with heaps more people there than I had expected. This only got me even more keen to get training and have a great year. This year I would like to do many of the bouldering comps. I think this would benefit me as a climber and also give me a great focus point other than outdoors. This is my final year in my degree so no doubt I'll be busy but hopefully I will still be able to get my goals done. As this is my final year, it has also given me great motivation to think about where I want to go once Ive finished to celebrate. I have a few destinations in mind but am unsure yet. Some of the possibilities are;

*Bishop and Heuco

*Joes Valley

*Spain

*Red River Gorge

*Switzerland

There are others which pop into my head, though these stand out the most to me at the moment. I have started to really get back into form lately. I did a weekend in the Blue Mountains where I was able to test out where I'm at and how I'm climbing. I was also able to get to Nowra 2 days after that to do a few laps whilst dodging the mosquito's!!!!! (unsuccessfully). I have also been back on the hangboard and my wall until the gym opens on the 12th of March. I also was able to get down to Sydney to do some bouldering and become familiar with a few problems I want to do this year. This was partially successful and partially not. I did well on a problem called L'Homme Obu graded V10/11 but the weather was hot and skin came off easily. After that I went to Crumbly to try the moves of Abacus V12. This thing shut me down so hard. I didn't really rest, and whilst progress was made, the whole thing feels nails. This disappointed me as last yr when fresh I believed I had a good chance if I continued to work it. However, this motivated me more to get into form and hopefully later in the year it will be on the scorecard.

The photos above are me on L'Homme Obu and me training in my garage (previously newcastles best facillity).

Count Down

Well if you have looked at my page before, you will already know there is an amazing gym soon to be open here in Newcastle. I am so excited for this gym to be open. I cant wait to see how the sport grows up here in Newy and am eager to really start training in a fun way at a gym again. Since moving to Newcastle about 3 years ago I have not had any gym to train at. This makes it extremley hard to keep motivation levels at a high (being stuck doing essays is not good for motivation either). For me climbing is really about motivation and goals. If both are there then everything else is able to fall into place. You can tapper your training and good this will happen. I am proud of what I have accomplished since being here in Newcastle considering the above. My training consisted of lots of hangboarding, and some bouldering on my little 2 and a half panal home wall. I am greatful in a way that I did not have a gym to train at. My reasoning for this is that I now fully (well maybe not fully) understand the benefits of hangboarding and know the masive benefits gained from it if done correctly. A big thanks goes out to my good friend Chris Webb though. Most of the time he is away overseas, however when he is in the country he ALWAYS seems to motivate and pushes me to my limits. Good luck O/S mate, come back every now and then so I can get some stuff done. Whilst I did many trips to Sydney for both bouldering and training this gym opening will enable so many people to up their climbing skill and will be a massive contribution to the sport. What else could you ask for, amazing beaches, not overly busy traffic and a good climbing gym. Well you could possibly ask to be a little closer to rock, but if there is a group of super keen people to share the driving and get away thats ok.

Almost 2011, what will it bring?...... How about a CLIMBING GYM

2011 is almost here. This coming year should put Newcastle back on the climbing map. A few people have gone in together to build from ground up Newcastle's ONLY climbing gym. This gym will be excellent. The people building it have a great idea on shapes and the dynamics of climbing. The gym atmosphere should be amazing as Newcastle has such an array of people and abilities. I cannot wait to get in there and get a great scene going. Watch out Sydney squads cause Novocastrians will be coming through the ranks. The website can be viewed here:

http://www.pulseclimbing.com.au/

On a personal note, I have been keeping in shape but have tapered back a little on the climbing as it has been an extremely busy time for me. Elevated temperatures also contribute to the decrease in training. I finished my 3rd yr in my degree this year, so exams were intense followed by a month prac placement followed by more assignments and finally the Christmas period. I have been surfing quite a bit and have seen good improvements in my skills which is great. For 2011 I have a few goals (both routes and bouldering) and a few trips in the making. I am hoping if all goes according to plan to organise a great trip once I finish my degree. Until then, see you round,
Cheers.

Just a bit of an update

Well, it's been heating up a bit lately, well except for today. It has been raining here in Newcastle for close to 12hrs. On the climbing front, I have been keeping in OK shape training at ECAT in Sydney and also on my wall here in Newcastle. I have not been out on rock for a little while as it's getting warm and would rather get some good training in as conditions would not be great. In the next couple of months there is a possibility of a few trips down to the Grampians in December and also in January next year. I do have quite a few little projects I would like to complete down there, but until then it's likely to be training indoors (with the occasional outdoor trip) and surfing.

Day trip to Nowra

I decided to do a quick day trip down to Nowra from my home town of Newcastle. Yes, that's right, Newcastle. This is a 4.5hr drive for me, so 9hrs all up. With this kind of drive you would hope for some kind of success. Well it turned out to be a ripper of a day. Conditions were a cool 17 degrees with a nice wind the whole day. I wanted to finish off a problem at Cheesedale called "Jug to Jug" V11. Previously, this problem was stout V9 however, a good two finger pocket was filled and is no longer there to pull on. Now its a big move to a slope with a difficult match. I tried this problem on the weekend of T10 and found it hard initially until finally my body got used to the moves. I got super close that day but unfortunately it did not go. I thought if I don't organise to get back down to Nowra soon I may have to wait for ages as it is so far and ill be busy soon. Conditions were so good, and I knew the moves and I was confident it would go down. After a quick warm up and a few stretches I sent it. Have a look at the vid to see it. A big thanks goes to Pete Webster (champ in the background) for half the driving. Without him it would have been difficult for me to get down there for a day trip.

Banana Rama

Hairy Joe's Banana Shack, V11.

It is finally Uni holidays, after a long term I finally was free to get out on the blocs once again before it starts to get hot. I decided to head down to the Villas once more to finish off "Hairy Joe's Banana Shack". I tried this problem after Contact however, it got hot so I knew I would have to come back to finish it off. I knew I would be racing the sun and did not have very much time, luckily for me by 11:30 it was done. This is a super simple problem (I mean easy to work out), just one hard move at the start then up a scoop to a jug finish. The first move is the hardest with a big lock/dead point to a good edge, the first time I did this move I fell off the last move going to a big victory jug. I was shattered and made sure that was not going to happen again. The second time I did the move everything went according to plan and it was done. Hopefully there is more to come in the holidays, however it is warming up quickly so time to get out there then hit the surf.

Contact RHV V12 goes down.

The Villas, a Sutherland crag with everything to keep a boulderer happy. This place is so good, its got a nice scene to it being right next to the river in bushland. With steep powerful climbing to techo slabs this place has it all. I have been going here on the odd day here and there with my sites on Contact and numerous other projects. After coming back from Nowra one day, I decided to stop here and give Contact ago. That same day I nearly did it, I went from matching the undercling/pinch to the top. All I had to do was one move onto the undercling and then match, from here I had done it and thought it would be sweet. Thing is everytime I went back there to try and send it, I would either injury myself OR conditions were terrible and simply pulling on would be an achievement in itself. Last time I was there I injured my ankle quite badly so I could not go back until it had healed. Anyway, after my ankle had healed enough I thought I would go back and have a burn on it. After warming up I pulled on only to feel that my ankle had not fully healed and was still sore. I was shattered but thought I would tough it out and see if it got better the more I warmed up. Lucky for me this was the case, I ended up sending it after some slight modifications regarding foot placement. This is great and I am super happy, I have had numerous other injuries lately all of which I have been scared may become worse, so I am happy to have this ticked off even though it took longer than anticipated.

Quick day in Nowra

Sexy Nuggets V9

Bit of a quick trip to Nowra and back. After an election party on the Saturday night, Sunday I woke eager to get to Nowra to climb a few things and get some fitness training in. Once again it was myself with my brother Dwayne. After a quick warm up at Rosies I decided to try a link I had my eye on at Lott 33. The link starts at "Sexy Rexy" V8 which is just to the right of "Special Delivery", it then heads right, and right again, and a little bit more to link into "Nappy Nuggets" V8. This is a quite long boulder, all up it is around 21 moves and no doubt is a bit of a pumper. The hardest part of it I guess is the very last punch into a gaston at the end of "Nappy Nuggets". It is called "Sexy Nuggets" and I graded it V9. I think it is solid at that as its definitely harder than the original V8 but probably not as hard as 10. It is a cool boulder and I'd recommend it to anyone. After this, I did a few laps on Ain't No Sunshine and attempted Crenshure Boulevard at South Central. That route is amazing, whilst very very overlooked, the moves are so rad. Maybe before the season has ended it will be in the basket.

Loving the Climbing

Turbo Guns V10

Another fine weekned at Nowra, the weather was perfect, heaps of people and a great atmosphere. I had a few things on my mind this trip and was keen to polish off a few things. First stop was Cheesedale. I had been on Turbo Guns previously after trying a few other routes and had found the start quite hard (most likely cause I cant fit my fat fingers in the pockets very well). Anyway, after seeing my brother send his first lead (which was great) I decided to give it a crack. I managed to send Turbo Guns V10 on my first shot that day. I was pretty happy with this as I'd been on it previously and found it difficult. In the meantime a friend Norry was ever so close to putting "Non dairy cheese like substitute" 30/31 to bed, unfortunately that day came in short.

The next day after another night in front of a fire drinking Jack we were heading to Rosies. Here I was able to snatch an ascent of "Hooter Paradise" 31. This is the direct line to "Aloha Paradise" starting up "Lucious Hooters", a powerful and steely 26. The route is so good, amazing in fact, pockets, crimps, slopes and even a crux sideways dyno! After this my brother and myself smashed ourselves bouldering at Lott33. So all in all I'm super happy with the weekend. Photos will be posted once I get em, thanks to Dwayne for his handy camera work.

Sydney Bouldering

On Sunday I had organised to meet my good friend Chris once again for a bit of a session at Crumbly in Sydney. I was keen to send a new addition to the crag put up by Webby. The new line starts as for "Abacus" and heads left onto the rails on "Sushi Train" and continues left towards the start of "Mushi Brain". The meat of the line is right at the end where your pretty spanned out having to latch a small gaston crimp. I had tried this line after climbing at another crag and also 2nd day on after a big day at Nowra. I was keen to get on it with fresh skin and a fresh mind. After a few stretches and chin-ups I managed to send "Life Changes" V11 on my first go that day. The line is fantastic and climbs really well. Chris managed to repeat many things too, pretty much Chris can run laps on anything in the crag!!! I also managed to send "Chaos & Disorder" V11 that same day later in the afternoon. Originally V10 apparently it has changed as a crucial hold snapped off. All in all a great day, perfect conditions with a great friends. Photos will hopefully be done soon, I will post them up once I get them.

Cheers, have a great day.

Been such a long time.

Top: Me on "Turbo Guns" V10. Photo by Dwayne Tosen. Bottom: Me on "Combat Wombat" V11 Photo by Duncan Brown.

I have decided to try to keep this thing up to date for once. I guess a lot has happened in the last few months, and more will be happening in the months to come. Ok, once again I have had quite a lot of time off. I went to Japan snowboarding in December as part of my honeymoon, and was able to check out one of the gyms there too. I was able to stay quite strong in Japan and was quite close to sending Pooferator 31 in the mountains one I returned to Australia. However, once again this climb shut the door on me yet again. I feel so frustrated with this climb. I don't find it hard at all, the moves are easy and I have done it with 1 fall for so so long. I fall on a drive-by move, then do it from below that move to the top. It must be all mental. It will happen, and that day will be soon and oh so memorable. I did have a big break from climbing through most of the first semester of 2010 due to uni commitments. I was really looking forward to the climbing gym opening in Newcastle however, I got sick of hearing information and not much else so i decided to build myself a climbing wall in my garage. I have a good training set up know and am keen to stay strong and start completing my projects. I have been training for around 2months now and am beginning to see some great improvements.

I recently went to Nowra and did the overlooked route at Bartondale "Mr Bubbles" 29. This route is so good, its a powerful little thing which is even a little technical at the start with placements. Another weekend after building a bit more fitness I sent "Krusty" 28, I had been on this before but could not back up a couple of days on so needed to build some more fitness. However after returning, it felt super easy a sent it putting the draws on.

I also have been doing a little bit of bouldering in Sydney. Chris, Duncan, Dave and myself went to the crag "Sunnyside" a had a great day. This crag has some hard bouldering in it with two V14s a V11 and I think a V6. Chris recently put the second V14 up which starts right of the V11 "Combat Wombat" and leads into it with some crazy shoulder pressing moves. I did the V11 "Combat Wombat" second shot once working out a good sequence and then headed to "Crumbly" to try another recent addition by Mr Webb called "Life Changes" V11. This is a classic traverse with a very hard finish. I am close to this and hope to send it in the near future.

I am very keen on bouldering at the moment, I am heaps more motivated to boulder as there is so much for me to do and it is a lot closer than the Blue Mountains and Nowra. I did go and check out the bouldering at Cheesedale when I was at Nowra last, I had a go of "Turbo Guns" V10. I was close to sending it but could not put it together as I was tired as I tried a hard route prior to attempting it.

Mountans for a few hours.

Saturday morning me and my brother headed to the Blue Mountains for a couple of hours, my main aim was to show my brother what climbing was about and just have a good time in the mountains. We did a few easier routes at Shipley then I decided to head to Centenial Glen when it got a bit hotter to show my brother Wave wall and the other areas. I thought whilst I was in the area and becasue it was not too hot, I would try to do Tu Tu Sullied Flesh, 29. I had been doing a bit of training but not very much as I have been busy with other things, anyway I managed to do it easy whilst putting the draws on. I was pretty stoked with that. After that I did a few easier routes on wave wall to cool down a bit. Overall the day was a success and am keen to do a lot of climbing over the summer. Whilst it will be hot, I will have time to get out unlike when Im stuck at uni.

Balkans Day Trip

We braved the heat once again and headed down to Sydney for some bouldering. This time it was myself, Aidan and Andrew. I am suprised at how keen the local Newcastle boys are. Without doubt most weekends they are keen to get out and about. It was a successful day for everyone. Aidan and I both did "The Pincer Movement" V5, I have never been on this thing, it is such a classic, one that you could do everytime you were down there. I also did the low start to "Boogie Knights" which Ive herd comes in at V9. I also did the low start to "Sloper Dan Milosevic" again I herd this comes in at V9 but thought it was a bit easier so ???? 8????. To finish off the day I also did "7th Day Ascentist" coming in at V9 (soft maybe) too. I feel whislt it was a bit of a battle for me cause it was so hot hanging onto slopers, in cold conditions I think it would be fine. Here are some pics from today.

Big thanks to the Newcastle boys and Chris for spotting, also a big thanks to Aidan for these shots he has taken.

Blacker Magic

Here is some footage of me doing Blacker Magic V9. It was very hot and conditions were not very good at all. This is such a cool cave, im so keen to come back and do more here. Im angry to see junkies have left their used syringes in the back of a cave, on the right hand side if you are looking at the cliff. Its bad enough they are shooting up there, but the least they could do is take their disease sticks with them.

Been Busy

Well, I guess you noticed, I did not have any success with Pooferator. Its still unfinished business (for the moment). Its been super busy with uni work as the end of the year is comming up, also been busy organising Wedding things. However, I have started to get out a little and look forward to getting out even more from now on. I did "Rocket Man" V9 a few weeks ago. I did not expect this as I was not training at all because of uni. It was a last min trip in hot conditions, but I am super keen to go back and send the link, the V10/11 L'homme Obu.
Im off to Crumbly tomorrow to try to send "Blacker Magic" V9.

Will it or wont it EVER happen?

POOFERATOR, This Shipley climb has been without doubt the longest thing I have ever worked! I have done it like a million times with one fall, but somehow I can never seem to link it to the top. Hmmmmm, all things going well I am going to try to send this route on Sunday. If I do this thing it will be the best feeling, probably equal if not better to when I did Attack Mode 32 way back in 2004. Whilst I probably wont get photos this weekend, if I do it ill be sure to get some done.

Good Times

Well it’s been a while since I posted anything. Last weekend was Thommos 20th anniversary (T10). Organised by Rob and Carlie, many climbers dressed up in the most fashionable 80’s attire and hit the cliffs seeking a massive session on the rock. Many, if not all climbers got exactly that. The day was a great success, heaps of friendly faces many I had not seen in years.

I was in the top 10 category trying to send 10 semi hard routes, I did not succeed in that. I did manage to send a few harder ones and I came close to sending more but falling on victory jugs. I managed a repeat of Narcosis 30 and Lover Boy 30, however I fell on the last hold of Slip Slop Slap 29 and fell once on Baby Just Don’t Bite It 28. The rest of my routes completed were 25 of below, after trying the above routes I could not seem to manage anything harder.

The second day I woke up pretty wrecked.

Here are some photos from Aidan Smith, another Novacastrian crusher.

Thanks so very much to Rob and Carlie for organising this event, it must of took a lot of work.

Revolution comp held at the pitch

Well it was the 4th revolution comp held at the pitch on saturday night. The turn out was great, there were so many people there, many I had not seen for some time. I raced down to sydney after work and got there right bang on 6pm, just when the comp started. I was super nervous as I have not competed in a revolution comp before and have not competed in many others either. It took me a little while to work out which wall I was to start on, so many quality problems. The comp consisted of a 3hr pump fest and no finals. In the 3 hrs you were to do the 8 hardest problems you could and also do as many as you could. This gave you 2 scores, all up score and the hardest 8 score. Overall I was really happy to be down there, it was such a great session to have at such a excellent gym. Overall the results were:

1st place: Yarn (Excuse the spelling)
2nd place: Steve Gardner
3rd Place: Myself.

Thanks heaps to everyone who helped set up for the comp, I cant wait for the next comp there!

Nowra season

I just came back from another day at Nowra. I had the flu going down there and had spent all day in bed the day before, so I was not sure if I was going to even get on anything hard. I warmed up on still life and thought to myself, I wont be back here for a while, so I should at least give something a go. So I put my draws on Narcosis, 30, in the little grease cave. To my suprise it felt easier than it ever has. I adjusted a few little things with the route, then sent it easily. My little bit of training paid off. I will be getting some photos when back down there in July, as I was only there for a few hours I could not set up any photos. I hope to spend a fair amount of time there over july and have my eye on a few routes and boulders there.

Back from nowra

Nowra was great. We had two days there and it was just what I needed. I am now super keen to be back down there and be climbing back to my usual strength. I didn't do bad though, I was still close to getting Narcosis in the cave and I could also still chugg a few laps on Aint no sunshine which is great. My strength is coming back quick so I am hoping I can send some new things in the near future. Will post some photos once am back from the next trip, this trip I was just so keen to be back climbing I didn't even think about getting the camera out. Next trip to nowra should be start of june, just before I go on prac for four weeks. Hope to tick some new things then.

NOWRA NOWRA NOWRA

Its nowra time. Well I am going to nowra this weekend, I've been doing a bit of training and am so so excited to head down there and do some climbing. Its been over a year I think since I have been there. Saturday morning at 5:00am its ON! This will be a great test to see where I am at in my climbing abilities as I do not have the same sorts of training as I am used to. I think it will be fine though, I feel good and hope to get some real motivation from this trip.

Cooling down = more climbing & waves.

Well its cooling down again, I haven't climbed much over the last couple of months but am starting to get more motivated to start training and do some trips away. There are still some unfinished projects of mine foating around which need to be done. I have also scooped out a few new ones which I would like to send this year. Another good point is that winter swell will be arriving soon, which means great waves and plenty of fun. As I am now living in Newcastle, I am always looking for people who may be keen to get away climbing or go surfing with, so if your keen let me know.

More surfin up at Hawks Nest, great day.

Hot hot days

Well, its been too hot to climb so I have been filling in my time surfing. Surfing for me is really addictive, similar to climbing in that way. Newcastle is a great place for surfing, except of late. It has been pretty flat reciently. There have been waves out just not very big thats all. Anyway here are a few photos of our camping/surfing trip up to Hawks Nest on Australia Day long weekend. Feb I will prob start training again and hopefully will re-gain my motivation to send some routes and blocks. Hope to see everyone around.

First trip to Bulahdelah

Well, I finally got up to the closest crag to my place which is called Bulahdelah. Bit of a hard one to spell huh. The place is pretty spectacular, there is a really big cave there. However, it is really really sharp. There is also another cave there called Fiegs cave. This is named after George Fieg, a famous climber within the climbing community for not only hard routes but also for his efforts in bolting and putting up his own hard routes. I on-sited a route called "Black Leg Miner" which is the classic 25 and also did "Fog Horn Leg Horn" a 27 second shot. This route was extended and down graded from 28 by the man himself, Justin Jefferson. There are a few uncompleted routes which still need to be put out of their misery here so stay tuned................

Blue Mountains

I finally got up to the Blue Mountains once again. Slowly getting my strength back, I went to Gateway the first day after warming up at Centenial Glen. I did the route "Gateway 28" 3rd shot. It is a little crimpy number but is a super cool route. The whole crag is really nice. The second day I went to boronia to throw a few laps as it was a hot day. The final day I caught up with Chris and had a surf in sydney.

Here is a photo of myself on Gateway.

The Brown Rooom

Well, I hit up the brown room today bouldering with Jason Piper. Had an ok session, I have started to train a little bit now so that probably helped. I did a second assent of Dan da Silvas "Rats cause broken brains" V9, its a total pumper boulder, I also did a few other easier blocks from V4 to V6/7 ish. Not a bad place but I was hoping for a full hard project to be inspired by, still was good to be back on the blocks. Thanks to JP for showing me some more semi local stuff.
Cheers.

Lobster Cave, Central Coast.

The Red 27 at lobster cave, this route went down second shot but there is a link into a project which should go at about 30 or so.

Halong Bay

Was wet when I was on this sucker, cool route but.

DWS in Halong Bay

Bit misty (poky) but a total adventure.

Halong Bay

Halong Bay.

A very special place, great climbing and great company from the locals.

Thanks lads.

Fred Hollows Foundation

Hey everyone,
As you may know Tighan and I are raising money for the "Fred Hollows Foundation" for the See the World Challenge, we are aiming to raise $10,000 and have got a very long way to go, money raised will go to the foundation to help restore eye sight in Vietnam and Cambodia, this is a extremely good course and if you choose to donate your donation will be very much appreciated and will go to helping these less fortunate people, all donations over $2 are tax deductible and we can give you a receipt, it will also allow us to go over there and visit and witness these people and see the difference in there lives. If you would like to make a donation please contact me so we can arrange something, if possible please help.

Thank you

GRAMPS TRIP, Going to try to get to the gramps around Jan or possibly before if i can find anyone going, im pretty free and would be keen for routes and boulders too, if ya keen to come along or know anyone drop us a line.

Thanks

Silent Bob V10

Sent Silent Bob V10 @ Sissy yesterday with a very good mate (Euby) takin photos, rad problem but pretty wet.

Mushibrain V11

Mushibrain at Crumbly V11, done about a week and a half ago.

Love Gun V10

Here is a photo taken today 28/10/07 at Alfrods Point, the problem is Love Gun V10, such a wicked problem!