Almost 2011, what will it bring?...... How about a CLIMBING GYM

2011 is almost here. This coming year should put Newcastle back on the climbing map. A few people have gone in together to build from ground up Newcastle's ONLY climbing gym. This gym will be excellent. The people building it have a great idea on shapes and the dynamics of climbing. The gym atmosphere should be amazing as Newcastle has such an array of people and abilities. I cannot wait to get in there and get a great scene going. Watch out Sydney squads cause Novocastrians will be coming through the ranks. The website can be viewed here:

http://www.pulseclimbing.com.au/

On a personal note, I have been keeping in shape but have tapered back a little on the climbing as it has been an extremely busy time for me. Elevated temperatures also contribute to the decrease in training. I finished my 3rd yr in my degree this year, so exams were intense followed by a month prac placement followed by more assignments and finally the Christmas period. I have been surfing quite a bit and have seen good improvements in my skills which is great. For 2011 I have a few goals (both routes and bouldering) and a few trips in the making. I am hoping if all goes according to plan to organise a great trip once I finish my degree. Until then, see you round,
Cheers.

Just a bit of an update

Well, it's been heating up a bit lately, well except for today. It has been raining here in Newcastle for close to 12hrs. On the climbing front, I have been keeping in OK shape training at ECAT in Sydney and also on my wall here in Newcastle. I have not been out on rock for a little while as it's getting warm and would rather get some good training in as conditions would not be great. In the next couple of months there is a possibility of a few trips down to the Grampians in December and also in January next year. I do have quite a few little projects I would like to complete down there, but until then it's likely to be training indoors (with the occasional outdoor trip) and surfing.

Day trip to Nowra

I decided to do a quick day trip down to Nowra from my home town of Newcastle. Yes, that's right, Newcastle. This is a 4.5hr drive for me, so 9hrs all up. With this kind of drive you would hope for some kind of success. Well it turned out to be a ripper of a day. Conditions were a cool 17 degrees with a nice wind the whole day. I wanted to finish off a problem at Cheesedale called "Jug to Jug" V11. Previously, this problem was stout V9 however, a good two finger pocket was filled and is no longer there to pull on. Now its a big move to a slope with a difficult match. I tried this problem on the weekend of T10 and found it hard initially until finally my body got used to the moves. I got super close that day but unfortunately it did not go. I thought if I don't organise to get back down to Nowra soon I may have to wait for ages as it is so far and ill be busy soon. Conditions were so good, and I knew the moves and I was confident it would go down. After a quick warm up and a few stretches I sent it. Have a look at the vid to see it. A big thanks goes to Pete Webster (champ in the background) for half the driving. Without him it would have been difficult for me to get down there for a day trip.

Banana Rama

Hairy Joe's Banana Shack, V11.

It is finally Uni holidays, after a long term I finally was free to get out on the blocs once again before it starts to get hot. I decided to head down to the Villas once more to finish off "Hairy Joe's Banana Shack". I tried this problem after Contact however, it got hot so I knew I would have to come back to finish it off. I knew I would be racing the sun and did not have very much time, luckily for me by 11:30 it was done. This is a super simple problem (I mean easy to work out), just one hard move at the start then up a scoop to a jug finish. The first move is the hardest with a big lock/dead point to a good edge, the first time I did this move I fell off the last move going to a big victory jug. I was shattered and made sure that was not going to happen again. The second time I did the move everything went according to plan and it was done. Hopefully there is more to come in the holidays, however it is warming up quickly so time to get out there then hit the surf.

Contact RHV V12 goes down.

The Villas, a Sutherland crag with everything to keep a boulderer happy. This place is so good, its got a nice scene to it being right next to the river in bushland. With steep powerful climbing to techo slabs this place has it all. I have been going here on the odd day here and there with my sites on Contact and numerous other projects. After coming back from Nowra one day, I decided to stop here and give Contact ago. That same day I nearly did it, I went from matching the undercling/pinch to the top. All I had to do was one move onto the undercling and then match, from here I had done it and thought it would be sweet. Thing is everytime I went back there to try and send it, I would either injury myself OR conditions were terrible and simply pulling on would be an achievement in itself. Last time I was there I injured my ankle quite badly so I could not go back until it had healed. Anyway, after my ankle had healed enough I thought I would go back and have a burn on it. After warming up I pulled on only to feel that my ankle had not fully healed and was still sore. I was shattered but thought I would tough it out and see if it got better the more I warmed up. Lucky for me this was the case, I ended up sending it after some slight modifications regarding foot placement. This is great and I am super happy, I have had numerous other injuries lately all of which I have been scared may become worse, so I am happy to have this ticked off even though it took longer than anticipated.

Quick day in Nowra

Sexy Nuggets V9

Bit of a quick trip to Nowra and back. After an election party on the Saturday night, Sunday I woke eager to get to Nowra to climb a few things and get some fitness training in. Once again it was myself with my brother Dwayne. After a quick warm up at Rosies I decided to try a link I had my eye on at Lott 33. The link starts at "Sexy Rexy" V8 which is just to the right of "Special Delivery", it then heads right, and right again, and a little bit more to link into "Nappy Nuggets" V8. This is a quite long boulder, all up it is around 21 moves and no doubt is a bit of a pumper. The hardest part of it I guess is the very last punch into a gaston at the end of "Nappy Nuggets". It is called "Sexy Nuggets" and I graded it V9. I think it is solid at that as its definitely harder than the original V8 but probably not as hard as 10. It is a cool boulder and I'd recommend it to anyone. After this, I did a few laps on Ain't No Sunshine and attempted Crenshure Boulevard at South Central. That route is amazing, whilst very very overlooked, the moves are so rad. Maybe before the season has ended it will be in the basket.

Loving the Climbing

Turbo Guns V10

Another fine weekned at Nowra, the weather was perfect, heaps of people and a great atmosphere. I had a few things on my mind this trip and was keen to polish off a few things. First stop was Cheesedale. I had been on Turbo Guns previously after trying a few other routes and had found the start quite hard (most likely cause I cant fit my fat fingers in the pockets very well). Anyway, after seeing my brother send his first lead (which was great) I decided to give it a crack. I managed to send Turbo Guns V10 on my first shot that day. I was pretty happy with this as I'd been on it previously and found it difficult. In the meantime a friend Norry was ever so close to putting "Non dairy cheese like substitute" 30/31 to bed, unfortunately that day came in short.

The next day after another night in front of a fire drinking Jack we were heading to Rosies. Here I was able to snatch an ascent of "Hooter Paradise" 31. This is the direct line to "Aloha Paradise" starting up "Lucious Hooters", a powerful and steely 26. The route is so good, amazing in fact, pockets, crimps, slopes and even a crux sideways dyno! After this my brother and myself smashed ourselves bouldering at Lott33. So all in all I'm super happy with the weekend. Photos will be posted once I get em, thanks to Dwayne for his handy camera work.

Sydney Bouldering

On Sunday I had organised to meet my good friend Chris once again for a bit of a session at Crumbly in Sydney. I was keen to send a new addition to the crag put up by Webby. The new line starts as for "Abacus" and heads left onto the rails on "Sushi Train" and continues left towards the start of "Mushi Brain". The meat of the line is right at the end where your pretty spanned out having to latch a small gaston crimp. I had tried this line after climbing at another crag and also 2nd day on after a big day at Nowra. I was keen to get on it with fresh skin and a fresh mind. After a few stretches and chin-ups I managed to send "Life Changes" V11 on my first go that day. The line is fantastic and climbs really well. Chris managed to repeat many things too, pretty much Chris can run laps on anything in the crag!!! I also managed to send "Chaos & Disorder" V11 that same day later in the afternoon. Originally V10 apparently it has changed as a crucial hold snapped off. All in all a great day, perfect conditions with a great friends. Photos will hopefully be done soon, I will post them up once I get them.

Cheers, have a great day.

Been such a long time.

Top: Me on "Turbo Guns" V10. Photo by Dwayne Tosen. Bottom: Me on "Combat Wombat" V11 Photo by Duncan Brown.

I have decided to try to keep this thing up to date for once. I guess a lot has happened in the last few months, and more will be happening in the months to come. Ok, once again I have had quite a lot of time off. I went to Japan snowboarding in December as part of my honeymoon, and was able to check out one of the gyms there too. I was able to stay quite strong in Japan and was quite close to sending Pooferator 31 in the mountains one I returned to Australia. However, once again this climb shut the door on me yet again. I feel so frustrated with this climb. I don't find it hard at all, the moves are easy and I have done it with 1 fall for so so long. I fall on a drive-by move, then do it from below that move to the top. It must be all mental. It will happen, and that day will be soon and oh so memorable. I did have a big break from climbing through most of the first semester of 2010 due to uni commitments. I was really looking forward to the climbing gym opening in Newcastle however, I got sick of hearing information and not much else so i decided to build myself a climbing wall in my garage. I have a good training set up know and am keen to stay strong and start completing my projects. I have been training for around 2months now and am beginning to see some great improvements.

I recently went to Nowra and did the overlooked route at Bartondale "Mr Bubbles" 29. This route is so good, its a powerful little thing which is even a little technical at the start with placements. Another weekend after building a bit more fitness I sent "Krusty" 28, I had been on this before but could not back up a couple of days on so needed to build some more fitness. However after returning, it felt super easy a sent it putting the draws on.

I also have been doing a little bit of bouldering in Sydney. Chris, Duncan, Dave and myself went to the crag "Sunnyside" a had a great day. This crag has some hard bouldering in it with two V14s a V11 and I think a V6. Chris recently put the second V14 up which starts right of the V11 "Combat Wombat" and leads into it with some crazy shoulder pressing moves. I did the V11 "Combat Wombat" second shot once working out a good sequence and then headed to "Crumbly" to try another recent addition by Mr Webb called "Life Changes" V11. This is a classic traverse with a very hard finish. I am close to this and hope to send it in the near future.

I am very keen on bouldering at the moment, I am heaps more motivated to boulder as there is so much for me to do and it is a lot closer than the Blue Mountains and Nowra. I did go and check out the bouldering at Cheesedale when I was at Nowra last, I had a go of "Turbo Guns" V10. I was close to sending it but could not put it together as I was tired as I tried a hard route prior to attempting it.

Mountans for a few hours.

Saturday morning me and my brother headed to the Blue Mountains for a couple of hours, my main aim was to show my brother what climbing was about and just have a good time in the mountains. We did a few easier routes at Shipley then I decided to head to Centenial Glen when it got a bit hotter to show my brother Wave wall and the other areas. I thought whilst I was in the area and becasue it was not too hot, I would try to do Tu Tu Sullied Flesh, 29. I had been doing a bit of training but not very much as I have been busy with other things, anyway I managed to do it easy whilst putting the draws on. I was pretty stoked with that. After that I did a few easier routes on wave wall to cool down a bit. Overall the day was a success and am keen to do a lot of climbing over the summer. Whilst it will be hot, I will have time to get out unlike when Im stuck at uni.

Balkans Day Trip

We braved the heat once again and headed down to Sydney for some bouldering. This time it was myself, Aidan and Andrew. I am suprised at how keen the local Newcastle boys are. Without doubt most weekends they are keen to get out and about. It was a successful day for everyone. Aidan and I both did "The Pincer Movement" V5, I have never been on this thing, it is such a classic, one that you could do everytime you were down there. I also did the low start to "Boogie Knights" which Ive herd comes in at V9. I also did the low start to "Sloper Dan Milosevic" again I herd this comes in at V9 but thought it was a bit easier so ???? 8????. To finish off the day I also did "7th Day Ascentist" coming in at V9 (soft maybe) too. I feel whislt it was a bit of a battle for me cause it was so hot hanging onto slopers, in cold conditions I think it would be fine. Here are some pics from today.

Big thanks to the Newcastle boys and Chris for spotting, also a big thanks to Aidan for these shots he has taken.

Blacker Magic

Here is some footage of me doing Blacker Magic V9. It was very hot and conditions were not very good at all. This is such a cool cave, im so keen to come back and do more here. Im angry to see junkies have left their used syringes in the back of a cave, on the right hand side if you are looking at the cliff. Its bad enough they are shooting up there, but the least they could do is take their disease sticks with them.

Been Busy

Well, I guess you noticed, I did not have any success with Pooferator. Its still unfinished business (for the moment). Its been super busy with uni work as the end of the year is comming up, also been busy organising Wedding things. However, I have started to get out a little and look forward to getting out even more from now on. I did "Rocket Man" V9 a few weeks ago. I did not expect this as I was not training at all because of uni. It was a last min trip in hot conditions, but I am super keen to go back and send the link, the V10/11 L'homme Obu.
Im off to Crumbly tomorrow to try to send "Blacker Magic" V9.

Will it or wont it EVER happen?

POOFERATOR, This Shipley climb has been without doubt the longest thing I have ever worked! I have done it like a million times with one fall, but somehow I can never seem to link it to the top. Hmmmmm, all things going well I am going to try to send this route on Sunday. If I do this thing it will be the best feeling, probably equal if not better to when I did Attack Mode 32 way back in 2004. Whilst I probably wont get photos this weekend, if I do it ill be sure to get some done.

Good Times

Well it’s been a while since I posted anything. Last weekend was Thommos 20th anniversary (T10). Organised by Rob and Carlie, many climbers dressed up in the most fashionable 80’s attire and hit the cliffs seeking a massive session on the rock. Many, if not all climbers got exactly that. The day was a great success, heaps of friendly faces many I had not seen in years.

I was in the top 10 category trying to send 10 semi hard routes, I did not succeed in that. I did manage to send a few harder ones and I came close to sending more but falling on victory jugs. I managed a repeat of Narcosis 30 and Lover Boy 30, however I fell on the last hold of Slip Slop Slap 29 and fell once on Baby Just Don’t Bite It 28. The rest of my routes completed were 25 of below, after trying the above routes I could not seem to manage anything harder.

The second day I woke up pretty wrecked.

Here are some photos from Aidan Smith, another Novacastrian crusher.

Thanks so very much to Rob and Carlie for organising this event, it must of took a lot of work.

Revolution comp held at the pitch

Well it was the 4th revolution comp held at the pitch on saturday night. The turn out was great, there were so many people there, many I had not seen for some time. I raced down to sydney after work and got there right bang on 6pm, just when the comp started. I was super nervous as I have not competed in a revolution comp before and have not competed in many others either. It took me a little while to work out which wall I was to start on, so many quality problems. The comp consisted of a 3hr pump fest and no finals. In the 3 hrs you were to do the 8 hardest problems you could and also do as many as you could. This gave you 2 scores, all up score and the hardest 8 score. Overall I was really happy to be down there, it was such a great session to have at such a excellent gym. Overall the results were:

1st place: Yarn (Excuse the spelling)
2nd place: Steve Gardner
3rd Place: Myself.

Thanks heaps to everyone who helped set up for the comp, I cant wait for the next comp there!

Nowra season

I just came back from another day at Nowra. I had the flu going down there and had spent all day in bed the day before, so I was not sure if I was going to even get on anything hard. I warmed up on still life and thought to myself, I wont be back here for a while, so I should at least give something a go. So I put my draws on Narcosis, 30, in the little grease cave. To my suprise it felt easier than it ever has. I adjusted a few little things with the route, then sent it easily. My little bit of training paid off. I will be getting some photos when back down there in July, as I was only there for a few hours I could not set up any photos. I hope to spend a fair amount of time there over july and have my eye on a few routes and boulders there.

Back from nowra

Nowra was great. We had two days there and it was just what I needed. I am now super keen to be back down there and be climbing back to my usual strength. I didn't do bad though, I was still close to getting Narcosis in the cave and I could also still chugg a few laps on Aint no sunshine which is great. My strength is coming back quick so I am hoping I can send some new things in the near future. Will post some photos once am back from the next trip, this trip I was just so keen to be back climbing I didn't even think about getting the camera out. Next trip to nowra should be start of june, just before I go on prac for four weeks. Hope to tick some new things then.

NOWRA NOWRA NOWRA

Its nowra time. Well I am going to nowra this weekend, I've been doing a bit of training and am so so excited to head down there and do some climbing. Its been over a year I think since I have been there. Saturday morning at 5:00am its ON! This will be a great test to see where I am at in my climbing abilities as I do not have the same sorts of training as I am used to. I think it will be fine though, I feel good and hope to get some real motivation from this trip.

Cooling down = more climbing & waves.

Well its cooling down again, I haven't climbed much over the last couple of months but am starting to get more motivated to start training and do some trips away. There are still some unfinished projects of mine foating around which need to be done. I have also scooped out a few new ones which I would like to send this year. Another good point is that winter swell will be arriving soon, which means great waves and plenty of fun. As I am now living in Newcastle, I am always looking for people who may be keen to get away climbing or go surfing with, so if your keen let me know.

More surfin up at Hawks Nest, great day.

Hot hot days

Well, its been too hot to climb so I have been filling in my time surfing. Surfing for me is really addictive, similar to climbing in that way. Newcastle is a great place for surfing, except of late. It has been pretty flat reciently. There have been waves out just not very big thats all. Anyway here are a few photos of our camping/surfing trip up to Hawks Nest on Australia Day long weekend. Feb I will prob start training again and hopefully will re-gain my motivation to send some routes and blocks. Hope to see everyone around.

First trip to Bulahdelah

Well, I finally got up to the closest crag to my place which is called Bulahdelah. Bit of a hard one to spell huh. The place is pretty spectacular, there is a really big cave there. However, it is really really sharp. There is also another cave there called Fiegs cave. This is named after George Fieg, a famous climber within the climbing community for not only hard routes but also for his efforts in bolting and putting up his own hard routes. I on-sited a route called "Black Leg Miner" which is the classic 25 and also did "Fog Horn Leg Horn" a 27 second shot. This route was extended and down graded from 28 by the man himself, Justin Jefferson. There are a few uncompleted routes which still need to be put out of their misery here so stay tuned................

Blue Mountains

I finally got up to the Blue Mountains once again. Slowly getting my strength back, I went to Gateway the first day after warming up at Centenial Glen. I did the route "Gateway 28" 3rd shot. It is a little crimpy number but is a super cool route. The whole crag is really nice. The second day I went to boronia to throw a few laps as it was a hot day. The final day I caught up with Chris and had a surf in sydney.

Here is a photo of myself on Gateway.

The Brown Rooom

Well, I hit up the brown room today bouldering with Jason Piper. Had an ok session, I have started to train a little bit now so that probably helped. I did a second assent of Dan da Silvas "Rats cause broken brains" V9, its a total pumper boulder, I also did a few other easier blocks from V4 to V6/7 ish. Not a bad place but I was hoping for a full hard project to be inspired by, still was good to be back on the blocks. Thanks to JP for showing me some more semi local stuff.
Cheers.

Lobster Cave, Central Coast.

The Red 27 at lobster cave, this route went down second shot but there is a link into a project which should go at about 30 or so.

Halong Bay

Was wet when I was on this sucker, cool route but.

DWS in Halong Bay

Bit misty (poky) but a total adventure.

Halong Bay

Halong Bay.

A very special place, great climbing and great company from the locals.

Thanks lads.

Fred Hollows Foundation

Hey everyone,
As you may know Tighan and I are raising money for the "Fred Hollows Foundation" for the See the World Challenge, we are aiming to raise $10,000 and have got a very long way to go, money raised will go to the foundation to help restore eye sight in Vietnam and Cambodia, this is a extremely good course and if you choose to donate your donation will be very much appreciated and will go to helping these less fortunate people, all donations over $2 are tax deductible and we can give you a receipt, it will also allow us to go over there and visit and witness these people and see the difference in there lives. If you would like to make a donation please contact me so we can arrange something, if possible please help.

Thank you

GRAMPS TRIP, Going to try to get to the gramps around Jan or possibly before if i can find anyone going, im pretty free and would be keen for routes and boulders too, if ya keen to come along or know anyone drop us a line.

Thanks

Silent Bob V10

Sent Silent Bob V10 @ Sissy yesterday with a very good mate (Euby) takin photos, rad problem but pretty wet.

Mushibrain V11

Mushibrain at Crumbly V11, done about a week and a half ago.

Love Gun V10

Here is a photo taken today 28/10/07 at Alfrods Point, the problem is Love Gun V10, such a wicked problem!