Friday, July 30, 2010

Been such a long time.



Top: Me on "Turbo Guns" V10. Photo by Dwayne Tosen. Bottom: Me on "Combat Wombat" V11 Photo by Duncan Brown.
I have decided to try to keep this thing up to date for once. I guess a lot has happened in the last few months, and more will be happening in the months to come. Ok, once again I have had quite a lot of time off. I went to Japan snowboarding in December as part of my honeymoon, and was able to check out one of the gyms there too. I was able to stay quite strong in Japan and was quite close to sending Pooferator 31 in the mountains one I returned to Australia. However, once again this climb shut the door on me yet again. I feel so frustrated with this climb. I don't find it hard at all, the moves are easy and I have done it with 1 fall for so so long. I fall on a drive-by move, then do it from below that move to the top. It must be all mental. It will happen, and that day will be soon and oh so memorable. I did have a big break from climbing through most of the first semester of 2010 due to uni commitments. I was really looking forward to the climbing gym opening in Newcastle however, I got sick of hearing information and not much else so i decided to build myself a climbing wall in my garage. I have a good training set up know and am keen to stay strong and start completing my projects. I have been training for around 2months now and am beginning to see some great improvements.

I recently went to Nowra and did the overlooked route at Bartondale "Mr Bubbles" 29. This route is so good, its a powerful little thing which is even a little technical at the start with placements. Another weekend after building a bit more fitness I sent "Krusty" 28, I had been on this before but could not back up a couple of days on so needed to build some more fitness. However after returning, it felt super easy a sent it putting the draws on.

I also have been doing a little bit of bouldering in Sydney. Chris, Duncan, Dave and myself went to the crag "Sunnyside" a had a great day. This crag has some hard bouldering in it with two V14s a V11 and I think a V6. Chris recently put the second V14 up which starts right of the V11 "Combat Wombat" and leads into it with some crazy shoulder pressing moves. I did the V11 "Combat Wombat" second shot once working out a good sequence and then headed to "Crumbly" to try another recent addition by Mr Webb called "Life Changes" V11. This is a classic traverse with a very hard finish. I am close to this and hope to send it in the near future.


I am very keen on bouldering at the moment, I am heaps more motivated to boulder as there is so much for me to do and it is a lot closer than the Blue Mountains and Nowra. I did go and check out the bouldering at Cheesedale when I was at Nowra last, I had a go of "Turbo Guns" V10. I was close to sending it but could not put it together as I was tired as I tried a hard route prior to attempting it.

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