Quick day in Nowra

Sexy Nuggets V9

Bit of a quick trip to Nowra and back. After an election party on the Saturday night, Sunday I woke eager to get to Nowra to climb a few things and get some fitness training in. Once again it was myself with my brother Dwayne. After a quick warm up at Rosies I decided to try a link I had my eye on at Lott 33. The link starts at "Sexy Rexy" V8 which is just to the right of "Special Delivery", it then heads right, and right again, and a little bit more to link into "Nappy Nuggets" V8. This is a quite long boulder, all up it is around 21 moves and no doubt is a bit of a pumper. The hardest part of it I guess is the very last punch into a gaston at the end of "Nappy Nuggets". It is called "Sexy Nuggets" and I graded it V9. I think it is solid at that as its definitely harder than the original V8 but probably not as hard as 10. It is a cool boulder and I'd recommend it to anyone. After this, I did a few laps on Ain't No Sunshine and attempted Crenshure Boulevard at South Central. That route is amazing, whilst very very overlooked, the moves are so rad. Maybe before the season has ended it will be in the basket.

Loving the Climbing

Turbo Guns V10

Another fine weekned at Nowra, the weather was perfect, heaps of people and a great atmosphere. I had a few things on my mind this trip and was keen to polish off a few things. First stop was Cheesedale. I had been on Turbo Guns previously after trying a few other routes and had found the start quite hard (most likely cause I cant fit my fat fingers in the pockets very well). Anyway, after seeing my brother send his first lead (which was great) I decided to give it a crack. I managed to send Turbo Guns V10 on my first shot that day. I was pretty happy with this as I'd been on it previously and found it difficult. In the meantime a friend Norry was ever so close to putting "Non dairy cheese like substitute" 30/31 to bed, unfortunately that day came in short.

The next day after another night in front of a fire drinking Jack we were heading to Rosies. Here I was able to snatch an ascent of "Hooter Paradise" 31. This is the direct line to "Aloha Paradise" starting up "Lucious Hooters", a powerful and steely 26. The route is so good, amazing in fact, pockets, crimps, slopes and even a crux sideways dyno! After this my brother and myself smashed ourselves bouldering at Lott33. So all in all I'm super happy with the weekend. Photos will be posted once I get em, thanks to Dwayne for his handy camera work.

Sydney Bouldering

On Sunday I had organised to meet my good friend Chris once again for a bit of a session at Crumbly in Sydney. I was keen to send a new addition to the crag put up by Webby. The new line starts as for "Abacus" and heads left onto the rails on "Sushi Train" and continues left towards the start of "Mushi Brain". The meat of the line is right at the end where your pretty spanned out having to latch a small gaston crimp. I had tried this line after climbing at another crag and also 2nd day on after a big day at Nowra. I was keen to get on it with fresh skin and a fresh mind. After a few stretches and chin-ups I managed to send "Life Changes" V11 on my first go that day. The line is fantastic and climbs really well. Chris managed to repeat many things too, pretty much Chris can run laps on anything in the crag!!! I also managed to send "Chaos & Disorder" V11 that same day later in the afternoon. Originally V10 apparently it has changed as a crucial hold snapped off. All in all a great day, perfect conditions with a great friends. Photos will hopefully be done soon, I will post them up once I get them.

Cheers, have a great day.