Banana Rama

Hairy Joe's Banana Shack, V11.

It is finally Uni holidays, after a long term I finally was free to get out on the blocs once again before it starts to get hot. I decided to head down to the Villas once more to finish off "Hairy Joe's Banana Shack". I tried this problem after Contact however, it got hot so I knew I would have to come back to finish it off. I knew I would be racing the sun and did not have very much time, luckily for me by 11:30 it was done. This is a super simple problem (I mean easy to work out), just one hard move at the start then up a scoop to a jug finish. The first move is the hardest with a big lock/dead point to a good edge, the first time I did this move I fell off the last move going to a big victory jug. I was shattered and made sure that was not going to happen again. The second time I did the move everything went according to plan and it was done. Hopefully there is more to come in the holidays, however it is warming up quickly so time to get out there then hit the surf.

Contact RHV V12 goes down.

The Villas, a Sutherland crag with everything to keep a boulderer happy. This place is so good, its got a nice scene to it being right next to the river in bushland. With steep powerful climbing to techo slabs this place has it all. I have been going here on the odd day here and there with my sites on Contact and numerous other projects. After coming back from Nowra one day, I decided to stop here and give Contact ago. That same day I nearly did it, I went from matching the undercling/pinch to the top. All I had to do was one move onto the undercling and then match, from here I had done it and thought it would be sweet. Thing is everytime I went back there to try and send it, I would either injury myself OR conditions were terrible and simply pulling on would be an achievement in itself. Last time I was there I injured my ankle quite badly so I could not go back until it had healed. Anyway, after my ankle had healed enough I thought I would go back and have a burn on it. After warming up I pulled on only to feel that my ankle had not fully healed and was still sore. I was shattered but thought I would tough it out and see if it got better the more I warmed up. Lucky for me this was the case, I ended up sending it after some slight modifications regarding foot placement. This is great and I am super happy, I have had numerous other injuries lately all of which I have been scared may become worse, so I am happy to have this ticked off even though it took longer than anticipated.