Me on "All the tables are reversed in my private universe V10"
Michael on "Whats blue and green and red all over" V8
Only a quick post today as not too much has been going on since my last. Yesterday myself and a mate got down to Sydney for some bouldering action. It felt like one of the hottest days we have seen this summer and we chose to go bouldering, totally worth it though. We headed to an area I had not been before, "The Lip", close to Frontline. A small little cave with some very awesome moves! At the moment there is only 4 lines which go through the cave, an 8 mantle thing, a 10 again with a difficult mantle at the end, an 11 which is basically the 10 but a harder extended start and another link 11 which is definitely the line to be done. At the moment the link 11 has only had one ascent though I am sure there are a few people lined up for this one. It involves some huge moves, toe hooks, heal hooks in a massive compression session. Great work by Dan for establishing this problem, he must of been maxed out spanning some of the holds! I managed to complete the 8 mantle called "Whats blue and green and red all over" as well as "All the tables are reversed in my private universe" V10. I got the moves sorted for the other problems and will be sure to be back down that way in the near future to hopefully finish them off. Great to finally go to a new area, got me keen again for the blocs, where to focus my attention........?
Michael on "Whats blue and green and red all over" V8
2 comments:
Great blog Pete! Would you be able to share walking directions to The Lip? It looks like a great addition to Frontline! Thanks. The V8 looks hell fun.
Hey Michael, sure, the only thing I guess I'd say first was just to be sure to keep away from peoples property, stay near the bush land rather than walk next to their yard which you can see into. That being said. Drive about 100m further up the road from where you would normally park as if you were going to frontline. On the same side of the road there is another fire ramp thing. Walk down the ramp until you get to the bush. Head right past a few houses on your right, about the 4th house there is a track heading into the bushes on your left, take that. From here head kinda straight (not right where there is an obvious track), you'll get to a cliff line, head left. Continue left until you can walk down an easy slab. The climbing should be on the left. If you head down early, once you get down the first cliff line head left, eventually you'll see it, bunch of chalk on the holds. Its only small, really small, doesnt look like much but the problems are good. The V8 starts in the Hueco. The 10 starts on the left on the obvious jug, the 11 just to the right on 2 slopey edges with a big iron cross to get the first jug on the 10. The other 11 starts on the 2 slopey edges, goes to the line then heads into the 8 with some huge spans. Good Luck!
Post a Comment